Home > February, 2010
CATCH AND RELEASE IS GOOD – WHEN DONE PROPERLY
Catch-and-release angling is on the increase, which means many anglers are starting to view the process as a conservation practice. Mostly voluntary at this point catch-and release is
being federally mandated in certain areas, to conserve our marine fisheries.
There is generally a lack of understanding regarding the level of mortality associated with the practice despite its widespread use. Folks believe that just putting a fish back means it’s going to survive; not so! Regardless of good intentions, the lack of understanding and the many variations in release and handling fish are till dying. Fortunately, the increase in catch-and-release has coincided with an increase in research and general recommendations based on available information.
Lactic Acid: Should be a major concern for light tackle anglers. Fish employ two basic muscle groups red and white. The red or dark muscle has a rich blood supply running the length of the fish. These are aerobic in nature burning oxygen derived from the gills. They aid in swimming, and also allow the fish to maintain its position in a current.
The fleshy part of a fish consists of white muscles; used occasionally for seizing food, they’re mostly used to evade predators. A hook and line constitutes a predator; white muscles are used as they struggle to avoid capture. Depending on the fight time, enormous quantities of energy, generated when glycogen based carbohydrates, metabolize.
This destabilization of glycogen, in the bloodstream, triggers huge build-ups of lactic acid. This acid buildup leads to acute stress levels and repression of the immune system can eventually cause death.
Humans have similar anaerobic muscles that also create lactic acid. If you’ve ever exerted yourself, like lifting weights at the gym, you may notice an intense burn prior to complete fatigue. Conveniently we often recover from this acid buildup within a matter of minutes. Fish on the other hand, are not as fortunate, it often takes 12 to 14 hours and as much as 72 hours for complete recovery.
Any lengthy hook and line struggle burns excessive white muscle fuel, which results in total exhaustion and eventual surrender. Just because it swims away after release does not
guarantee its survival. Today, with many anglers claiming environmental consciousness, we must take into account: 1.) the longer the battle, the more exhaustion 2.) the more exhaustion the more lactic acid 3.) the more lactic acid the longer recovery time. Keep in mind, complete exhaustion and shortened recovery times often prove fatal; they’re unable to avoid natural predators or hunt down food. Ensuring a faster recovery becomes the responsibility of every responsible angler It’s up to us to enjoy the battle, but end it quickly, before the fish reaches the point of no return.
Keep em’ wet: Getting the hook out, taking a photograph and admiring your catch takes time… Time out of water is a determinate to survival. Gills sophisticated and delicate organs
designed to work in water where they excrete carbon dioxide while simultaneously absorbing oxygen. The fragile gill lamellae quickly collapse when exposed to air. When this occurs, bad carbon dioxide levels (CO2) increase and good oxygen levels (O2). Basically, the fish cannot breathe efficiently when returned to the water.
The physiological response to catch-and-release practices is relatively well understood, little is known about the cumulative impact of sub-lethal stressors. Studies conducted at the Queen’s University in Ontario confirmed the mortality rate relates directly to gill damage suffered from prolonged exposure to air. During the study 28% or 3 out of 10 fish exposed to air and released within 60 seconds survived, the other 72% died within 12 hours. Further, minimal exposure for 30 seconds or less increased the survival rate to 6 out of 10 and those not exposed to air, substantially increased to 9 out of 10.
Catch-and-Release Guidelines: While catch-and-release is physiologically stressful; stress and trauma can minimize mortality by following some general guidelines. Most catch-and-release research has focused on examining species-specific responses to potential factors affecting mortality. The following recommendations are given to reduce catch-and-release mortality for most species.
Angling Techniques:
• Daiichi Circle hooks will minimize the chance of deep hooking.
• Barbless hooks are easier to remove and reduce handling time.
• The use of artificial lures should be encouraged.
• Fishing lines left unattended have a greater chance of deep hooking.
• Fishing line should be adequate for species being sought. It prevents line breakage and reduces on-hook time.
• Hot and cold water temperatures affect survival. There are times when good intentions fail, especially during cold and warm months. Now you face the decision of keeping it for dinner or returning it to the food chain. If you’re keeping it for dinner, make certain it’s within the legal limits.
Landing Fish:
• Fish should be retrieved quickly to prevent exhaustion.
• Fish should be landed by a wet hand, where possible.
• Landing nets when required should be knotless and made of soft rubber. Frabill offers a complete line of Conservation Series Nets.
• When landing extremely large fish, consider using a landing cradle.
Handling and Photographing:
• Always use wet hands.
• Never place your fingers through gills or in the eyes.
• Never hold heavy fish by the jaw, it can damage the jaw and vertebrae.
• Hold fish horizontally to avoid damage to the internal organs.
• Keep fish in the water to minimize gill exposure to air.
• Have camera ready prior to landing.
• Photograph the fish in water, when possible.
Un-hooking Fish:
• Have long nose pliers available to back the hook out.
• Remove the hook quickly, keeping the fish underwater.
• Cut the line close to the hook, if deeply hooked and release quickly.
• Avoid stainless steel hooks they take longer to corrode.
Revival:
• When there is current hold the fish upright facing the current.
• Without a current, gently move fish back and forth until gill movements return to normal and it can maintain its balance.
• When the fish begins to struggle, let go and watch.
Fatigue, sub-level stressors, and air contribute to fish mortality. Anglers intentionally extending a battle with ultra-light tackle, usually signs a death warrant for the unwilling participant. Longer than needed battles creates unnecessary stress levels resulting total exhaustion and sometimes death. Knowing your target and common sense should dictate tackle requirements.
We must educate ourselves about the proper techniques to ensure their survival when catching and releasing these wonderful creatures. Encouraged it, and become an ethical angler by releasing your catch with minimal damage.
Captain Woody Gore is an outdoor writer, photojournalist, and speaker. He also guides fishing charters in the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas. Fishing these areas for over fifty years he offers memorable fishing adventures. Capt Woody’s website is located at: WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM or give him a call at 813-477-3814
This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com
As usual the news media “Sensationalized the Circumstances” making folks think every fish in the area was killed. Nothing is farther from the truth…
I’ve lived here for 63 years and I believe its nature’s way if controlling nature. We’ve been through it before and we’ll go through it again.
“Fishing is exceptional” We’ve been catching fish on every trip since the cold spell, and it’s getting better every day, as the water temperatures return to normal.
We had some unseasonably cold weather and low water temperatures, in January, which was responsible for a large fish kill. Most species affected centered around catfish, spade-fish, sand perch, mullet, lady fish and snook. Yes, that’s right, we lost many large snook, but on a positive note, millions survived.
Snook – Snook fishing is notably slow during the winter; so I usually target other species giving them a break until spring. It’s difficult anyway trying to get them to eat when they are trying to stay warm. We did loose some big fish during the freeze, but these are older fish on the last of their life cycle. Nature at work.
Redfish – Fishing is good during the winter with plenty of available fish. We’ve been getting some nice slot fish on shrimp and cut bait. Terry Huff is pictured with a nice Tampa Bay Redfish. A sad note: Terry passed last year from lung cancer. See “Things That Matter”
Spotted Sea Trout – These fish light up during the cooler months and it’s not unusual to catch a limit in a short while. We’ve had days when it’s a fish on every cast. We get them on live shrimp and artificials and they are great eating.
Cobia – The cooler temps usually push the fish into or near the warm water run off of local power plants. However, we have better success in the summer months on flats and markers.
Sheepshead, Spanish Mackerel, Bluefish, Pompano – I’ll be targeting sheepshead shortly around bridges and dock pilings. They move inside this time of year to spawn and we catch some really big tackle busters. Folks usually don’t think of sheepshead as tackle busters, but when the spawning crew moves in… hold onto your rod.
Wintertime Mackerel should continue strong and bluefish are always a hoot on light tackle, and many times when trout fishing we’ll luck up on a Pompano or small permit.
Winter in Florida is not what our northern neighbor’s experience, but when the temperatures drop it does keep a few crackers off the water. This is a great time to get catch up with those trailer issues you’ve been avoiding.
If you are loafing around this winter, staying warm, at least try to look busy. If not your significant other might spot you doing nothing. This trigger’s an instinct known only to them; and they immediately realize this cannot be right; there is definitely something is wrong with the picture. Then from nowhere they appear with a sheet of paper. Cringing, we try to avoid eye contact and finally realize we’re busted. She’s right in front with the dreaded “List.” That’s right, it’s the honey-do or marriage maintenance list that seems impossible to accomplish in a lifetime and certainly not before spring.
However, as members of the “APHC” or “Anglers for Peace at Home Club” we know we can do it, we’ve done it before. After all, winters a good time to get a few things done around the house and tune up your boat, fishing tackle, and other equipment. Springs just around the corner and we need to be ready.
The woes of the unprepared are evident along any highway as spring arrives. They’re sitting on the side of the road with flat tires, burnt wheel bearings, broken springs and axles. Then again, those fortunate enough to make it to the ramp are sitting in a boat that won’t start or run. These problems can really but a damper on things; however, with minimal effort and planning they can be avoided.
Pro-active Preventative Maintenance is the key to preventing avoidable problems. Simply it means “fixing what needs fixing, before it needs fixing.” Preventative maintenance goes along way toward avoiding future repair cost, while curtailing reciprocal damage to other parts. It certainly makes your life easier.
Two categories of outdoor people exist today, the ones that have it done and the ones that do-it themselves. Regardless of which group you’re in, waiting until the last minute to get something repaired is asking for trouble. Appreciably, things happen at the last minute, but others we’ve known about well in advance.
The most neglected, but essential piece of equipment used in getting a boat to the water is the trailer. If for no other reason than the application they require constant attention.
For trouble free trips, here are some easily preformed inspections you can do at home. Another excellent time to inspect is at the ramp after you launch or before load.
Preventative Maintenance for Trailers includes bearings, brakes, tires, lights, wiring, winches, straps, hardware and frames. Remember, boat trailers take a beating, so keeping it clean and repaired prolongs the inevitable.
A Tip for “Do It Yourself Types” Digital Cameras offer tremendous advantages. When you get into new territory like cleaning and repacking a wheel bearing, cleaning a reel, shotgun or anything for the first time, take plenty of in-focus photos along the way. Now when it comes to putting it back together and you are not sure where something goes, just print the photos and there you are.
Wash it after each use, particularly when used in saltwater. Rinse everything thoroughly; the suspension, frame, wheels, crossbar tubes, spare, hitch, inside of the wheels and flush the brake assemblies thoroughly.
Bearings keep things rolling. During inspections look for an accumulation of grease on the inside of the wheel; this means the rear seal may be damaged and should be replaced. Bearings should be checked and lubricated every month or sooner depending on usage. When lubricating wheel bearings use a hand grease gun (not a power one) applying grease until you see it begin to ooze out; over filling may damage the rear seal. If the grease is milky it means water is present and the bearings should be repacked. It’s a good idea to clean and repack wheel bearings every six months to one year depending on the amount of use.
Brakes stop your rig. If your trailer is equipped with brakes; check them for leaks, worn rotors, disk or shoes and proper operation. Brake on boat trailers wear quickly, so keep and eye on them. Brake fluid will evaporate over time so keep the reservoir full. If the fluid gets too low you’ll need to bleed the system. You’ll notice this during stops and starts, because the trailer will clunk back and forth.
Tire Pressures & Treads are different on trailers, so maintain the correct pressure. Tire pressures are usually found on the sidewall in small letters. Check tread and wear patterns occasionally; rotating and balancing the tires. When replacing a tire especially on aluminum rims, make certain all corrosion is removed from the bead contact area and always replace valve stems. If you don’t carry a spare you should and remember to change a flat also requires a a suitable trailer jack and lug wrench.
Lug Nuts become especially important when you have a flat. Inevitably they will rust and trying to remove them is next to impossible. However there is a remedy for this called “Never Seize” This anti-seize compound is formulated with copper graphite, aluminum and other ingredients to protect metal parts from rust, corrosion and seizure. It’s found at most auto parts stores and when applied to your lugs and wheel nuts can be a life saver, when changing flat tires.
Lights & Wiring are always trouble on trailers. Make sure the wires are not cut from rubbing on the frame. Have someone assist in checking the proper operation of brake lights, turn signals, and running light. Although subject to interpretation mounting your lights on the guide poles is an easy solution to water problems. For greater day and night visibilities install the newest “LED” style lights.
Highway Emergency Kit: Put together an emergency kit that includes:
• Spare tire and wheel, a can of inflate-a-tire, flashlight w/extra batteries
• Lug wrench w/ extension handle, hydraulic jack, wheel chocks
• Extra wheel hub assembly w/ bearings, seals and lug nuts
• Marine wheel-bearing grease, spare tie down straps, spare winch strap,
• Replacement light bulbs, replacement fuses, and safety markers and flares.
Do this before the major fishing season gets underway and you’ll be well ahead of the game. Then if you experience an issue with our trailer, you’ll be prepared to handle it. Overall, it just makes our life simpler.
This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com
Tasty Crab & Parmesan Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms make a great appetizer or side dish for a seafood entree.
Ingredients:
1 pound large mushrooms
6 tbsp. butter
3 green onions, minced
3 to 4 tbsp. minced red bell pepper
4 ounces crab meat
1 cup fresh fine bread crumbs
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. Cajun or Creole seasoning blend
1/8 tsp. pepper
4 tbsp. Parmesan cheese
Preparation:
Wash and trim the end of stems from mushrooms. Pop remaining stem out. Chop stems and set aside. Melt 2 tablespoons butter; brush over mushrooms. Get an 8 inch baking dish or one that will hold all the mushrooms in one layer and spray it with butter-flavored spray or grease with.
Melt remaining butter in skillet; add reserved chopped stems, minced green onions and red bell pepper. Cook until vegetables are tender. Combine cooked ingredients with bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, crab meat, and seasonings. Fill each mushroom, piling up. Sprinkle each mushroom with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese. Bake at 350° for 15 to 20 minutes, until hot and mushroom caps are tender.
Makes 16 to 20 stuffed mushrooms