In Our Most Active Storm Season… We Must Be Prepared

When hurricanes and tropical storms threaten our coastlines; it serves as a reminder to everyone living on or near the coast to be properly prepared especially as the hurricane season enters what typically is its most active period.

First, review your insurance policy with your provider. Make sure your insurance is current and in force. Many or most policies require the policy holder to take certain precautions and actions you should take in the event of a storm.

Often boat owners are required to relocate their vessels out of a hurricane zone. Know if your marine insurance requires you to relocate the vessel and by what date specified in your policy.

People who do not plan to relocate their boats should have a Hurricane Plan detailing where and how your boat must be secured during a hurricane. Your insurer may even require this. If you live out of the area during the summer months, designate a responsible person to execute the plan in your absence.

Also, check the lease or dockage agreement with your marina, storage facility or private dock owner where your boat is moored making certain the vessel can remain there during a hurricane. If it can stay, be sure you know the procedure for securing not only your vessel, but those docked around it. A boat that breaks loose in a hurricane can wreak chaos on nearby vessels.

Some facilities demand that boats be removed from the water when a major storm is forecast. Owners who must move their boats should decide where to have it hauled before the hurricane season begins. Charges for storm haul-outs may be covered by your insurance policy.

Don’t wait until a storm is imminent as it is certain that service providers in the marine industry will have already prepared and secured their equipment and facilities for the storm and are no longer available to assist you.

10 Additional Tips for Hurricane Preparedness

1. Closely monitor local and national weather services including NOAA Weather Radio and NOAA online (http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/index.shtml).
2. Make an inventory, preferably by video, of all valuable fixed items such as marine electronics on board your boat.
3. Store all the boat’s important documents, including your marine insurance policy, in a secure place off the vessel.
4. When a storm is forecast for your area, remove all detachable items from your boat, such as canvas, sails, and cushions, fishing rigging, radios and antennas. Lash down everything that you cannot remove, including booms, tillers, wheels, etc.
5. Deflate your dinghy and store it and its outboard off the boat. If it’s a fiberglass dinghy, have it stored in an indoor facility.
6. If your boat is on a trailer, lash it securely. Use tie-downs to anchor the trailer to the ground, let the air out of its tires and weigh down the frame.
7. If your boat is in a facility with shore power, be sure all power is turned off and all shore power cords are stowed securely. Disconnect your boat’s battery.
8. Boats docked in a marina or in a private berth should be centered in the slip. Double-up all dock lines and make sure they are of sufficient length to compensate for excessive high water.
9. Anchored boats should have enough scope. Inspect all anchor ropes and chain and use only good or new gear. Set extra anchors as necessary.

Do not stay with your boat or try to ride out a storm on board. No matter how valuable your vessel is to you, both financially and sentimentally, it’s not worth your life.

There is nothing difficult about keeping fish in first class condition from the time their caught until the time they’re cooked and what a difference it makes to the taste.

Recreational or sport fishing anglers are always ready to jump up and down about any attempts to reduce their right to catch a mess of fresh fish for dinner. Then how come, so many of those same anglers who jump on their soap boxes and vociferously voice their opinion about this right, so often bring home fish that are often an inedible travesty of the original delight they caught?

The summer months seem to be the worse simply because the heat has such a devastating effect on any catch that is left unattended.

Anglers often forget and take little precaution to protect the freshness of the fish they plan on eating. They toss them into a fish box or un-iced cooler where the fish slowly struggles as it drowns in the air. Then as more fish are caught they are thrown on top of the already dead and dying fish. By the time the anglers gets to shore sometimes five to eight hours later they have a spoiled mess on their hands that certainly should not be eaten. Simply put, the fish have literally cooked in their own blood and slime. Now there is nothing left to do, but discard the rotting carcasses.

If we’re not going to do it right we shouldn’t be doing it at all… Many anglers would be better advised to fish on an exclusively catch-and-release basis only. If they wanted to have some fish for dinner they could stop by the local market and buy some on the way home. The fish in the market would most likely be in much better condition than the amateur’s catch.

The fact is, if we have any right to demand a stake in the way our fishery is managed. And that a significant piece of that fishery is reserved to ensure that recreational and fishing anglers can indeed continue to catch fish for dinner; then it is also true that we must use our share with care. That share must not only be controlled and managed by the obvious measures now in place such as catch limits, and the like. But also by ensuring that the fish we choose to take to the table are in prime eating condition.

If you were buying fish at the local fish market, the rules for checking the condition of the fish are simple. The same rules should apply to fish coming to the cleaning table after a day on the water in your boat.

• Are the eyes clear and bright? Cloudy or dull eyes are signs are the fish has not been treated right after it was caught.
• Is the flesh solid and ‘bouncy’ to the touch? When pressed and released does the flesh bounce back into shape? Soft flabby flesh means it is bruised, or beginning to decompose, or both.
• Is the fish slimy? Excessive slime is a sure sign the fish has been allowed to overheat and is beginning to decompose.
• Does the fish stink? A strong, putrid, fishy smell means the fish is decomposing. Fresh fish in good condition have a clean fishy smell, not unpleasant, or strong.

There is no reason we cannot produce fish in prime condition when we start preparing them for the table. The simple facts are that to produce table fish in prime condition we simply follow four easy steps.

First Step – fill an insulated cooler with ice, lots of ice.

Second Step – as fish come over the side, kill them right away with, preferably with a solid whack over the eyes with a fish club. Then place them in the cooler and cover with ice.

Second Step (Option) – However, If you have a freshwater circulated water livewell place the fish in the livewell and keep them alive as long as possible. 

Third step – Add some water to the insulated cooler along with the ice and drop the dead fish into this slurry as they are caught or die. Keep adding ice as needed.

Fourth step – Whenever time permits, remove the stomach contents and drop the fish back into the slurry.

Following these simple steps has very real advantages.

Because the flesh is chilled down, when the time comes to prepare the fish, the job is much easier. The fish will not be slimy, which means cleaning is easier, more efficient and filleting is especially a breeze.

Many people, who have trouble filleting fish, find the difficulty comes from slimy soft flesh making it hard to make a clean full cut. It’s much easier when the flesh has some consistency and firmness.

Preparing fish for the table also becomes more pleasant when there is little or no odor. Cooking fish should be an appetizing smell. I know many people who do not like eating fish because of bad past experiences. The cooking odor of foul-smelling fish is an integral part of taste, because our brain usually relates a bad smell to a bad taste.

But by far and away the biggest bonus will be in the taste. There is little to compare with the taste of fresh fish that has been well cared for since capture, especially fish that we have caught ourselves. For me that is one of the true joys of fishing.

Despite the very real problems in our saltwater fisheries, in comparison with most other places in the world ours is a dream fishery. The ability to take to the sea with a realistic anticipation of hooking into a nice catch of fish is one of the things that make our area unique. To mistreat the fish we choose to keep is an abuse of this right and privilege.

Give Me a Call and Let’s Go Fishing If you’re interested in learning to fish the bay area… Captain Woody’s been guiding and fishing Florida waters for over 50 year’s providing single boat charters for up to 4 anglers or multiple boats for large group events. And the results are always the same “Memorable Fishing Adventures with Tampa’s Top Guide”.

For more information or to book a trip, visit my website at: www.captainwoodygore.com, you can also reach me on my cell at: 813-477-3814 or office at: 813-982-2034. My Email address is wgore@ix.netcom.com

It’s a well known fact that structure and weeds hold bait, which also means they hold fish. However, fishing around rocks, docks, pilings and weeds can sometimes be a truly frustrating experience. It seems like each time you hook-up on a fish they take off for parts unknown; usually thick weed beds, rocks or rocky bottoms, and mangroves. Then without fail the fish either pulls the hook or breaks the line.

What is an angler to do apart from feelings of disparity at loosing a nice fish or sometimes hurling a few choice words, toward uninterested bystanders? They might try a time proven technique that’s worked for many anglers.

Here’s a little technique that’s worked for me and other seasoned anglers for many years. Based on our success it might be worth a try when fishing near bad areas. Especially if fish are continually running into the rocks, mangroves or thick weed beds to break your line and get away. You must understand that whenever a fish is hooked, it’s a natural instinct for anglers immediately begin applying pressure by keeping a tight line. So, if you take away the pressure, what will the fish do? More times than not they stop struggling against the tight line or running toward the nearest cover. Many times I’ve had a big snook head into the mangroves and become tangled in the roots. Quite often I’ll open the bail and let the line go slack for a few moments and then without warning I’ll take up the slack and re-apply pressure. It’s my theory this has a tendency to momentarily disorient the fish giving me enough time to get it headed out of the cover. Many times this has worked this technique has been successful in getting a fish out of cover.

Another thing to be aware of is your drag system and drag settings; making certain the drag is properly adjusted and in good operating condition.

Because “lever” drag reels are much more precise, it’s best to try backing off the drag when using this type of reel. With this system, it’s possible to return to your fighting setting with good accuracy. On the other hand, reels with star drags are not as precise. Changing the drag setting during a fight makes it practically hopeless to return to your original setting.

Once the fish stops running it is time to tighten the drag and gently begin easing up on the fish in an attempt to lead it up and away from anything that could foul your line. If the fish takes off again, back off on the drag and start over again. It’s better to make several attempts than loose a trophy fish. Once you’re confident the fish the fish far enough away from trouble it’s time to get on with the normal action of landing a nice fish. However, in the early stages, remember to be patient.

Although there is no hard documented proof that the banana is bad luck, it is a very viable superstition that many Captains live by. There are those that believe in all sorts of different superstitions, and who is to say they are not founded? However, the banana is one of the most persistent superstitions especially among the fishing community.

 This delicious yellow-skinned fruit has been blamed for many boating accidents, break downs, illness, and poor fish catches. Fishermen have harbored the belief that having bananas aboard is extremely unlucky when trying to catch fish.

For many the banana curse extends well beyond the fruit itself. Strong superstitious captains believe that anything representing a banana either itself, its smell and even its name should be banned from the boat. Some even go so far as to ban anything yellow from the boat, which seems somewhat ridiculous to me.
So, where did it come from? The bad luck theory of bananas is derived from the misfortune of stevedores unloading banana boats fromCentral America. The cargo most often contained biting spiders that not only were painful, but occasionally deadly. Stevedores considered it bad luck to be assigned to unloading a banana boat. This is the truth behind the myth.

Another possible rational for the banana bewilderment might simply be the fish stories exchanged between fishermen. Over the years, tale after tale of bad luck when an angler had bananas on board have been handed down and readily accepted with the bananas becoming the scapegoat.

Whatever the root cause actually might be, as they say, perception is reality and it has led to the infamous banana ban. Indeed, some anglers won’t allow Banana Boat Sun Screen or partake of a tasty banana daiquiri or a banana split for fear it will have an impact on the next day’s fishing. Thus, the banana discrimination continues.

The effect that this or other superstitions have on anglers is real. As almost everyone knows “Karma” is very important. The mere thought of bad luck can cause an imbalance in the captain, crew and anglers. This usually results in a poor catch.

So is bananas really bad luck? Usually but only for those who believe they are bad luck. However, one superstitious member on a fishing boat or vessel can affect an entire boat’s Karma. The banana impact and myth has affected millions of fishermen and highlights the important lesson in theory of fishing.

Superstition clutters the mind, creating imbalance. Clear your mental slate before fishing. The counter to a bad luck superstitious thought is a good luck thought, which adds to proper mental balance. Therefore, maintaining this proper balance while fishing requires an uncluttered mind.

Too many thoughts make being one with the fish more difficult. Remember the primitive brain is the key to harmony. Simplify your thoughts to simplify your fishing.

A bobber does not mean someone poking their head into a tub of water trying to grab an apple. A cork is more than a stopper for your favorite bottle of wine. And a float is not just a thing people ride during a parade. Actually they often pertain to a method of fishing used by millions of anglers throughout the years. It seems every angler has their own method or style and one of the most productive showed up several years ago… the popping a cork.

Historical papers indicate people used various floats, bobbers, or corks as early as mid 1800’s with evidence that somewhere around 1844 Norwegian fisherman used small egg-sized floats. Into the 1940’s, glass floats became popular and where used to support larger commercial fishing nets. However, for today most commercial and sport fishing applications have been replaced by aluminum, plastic, natural cork and Styrofoam.

Corks, bobbers, floats or whatever you call them still serve the same purpose for today’s anglers. Whether a small boy with a cane pole and a can of worms, sitting on the bank, fishing for bream, a family fishing for bass, snook or redfish or a commercial trawler night fishing for swordfish…at some time or another they use some form of tackle suspension or strike indicating floatation.

Over the last few decades, someone came up with the idea of popping their corks on the surface like a lure. To their amazement they discovered it could serve more than one purpose. Not only could the bobber indicate a strike, but when popped on the surface it attracted otherwise uninterested fish. This new method of attracting fish also attracted the attention of tackle manufacturers. And soon capitalized on the idea by creating what is known today as a Popping Cork.

A relatively simple design it soon became the must have float in every anglers arsenal, especially those targeting saltwater species like spotted sea trout and redfish. The idea was to generate enough attention as to attract an unsuspecting fish. As they investigated the commotion there was a tasty morsel of food.

This new method worked so well in fact, the cork soon took on a shape of its own and almost immediately began showing up in tackle shops everywhere. Each brightly colored oval or cigar shaped cork had a stainless steel wire shaft threaded through round plastic and brass beads. Now when popped it not only created commotion on the surface, but as the cork slid up and down the stainless steel shaft striking the beads it made a clicking sound.

This little fishing novelty helped anglers catch thousands of fish throughout the world. It did however have one drawback the stainless steel shaft. After a period of time it would bend and the cork would not slide properly.

For years after the invention of popping corks, all was well in the fishing industry and they sold like hot cakes on a cold winter’s morning. Just think… now we had it all, a strike indicator, a fish attractor and the small brass beads added weight which meant further cast. Could our fishing lives get any better?

Sensing a need for new and cutting edge product several tackle manufacturers revolutionized the popping cork market by creating a totally new design. This completely new style of popping cork not only offered the standard oval and cigar shapes, but one had a concave top designed specifically to move more water.

Not only did we have a new design it went a step further and corrected the one existing drawback. Instead of using stainless steel shafts they used Titanium which enabled it to spring back to its original shape.

We now understand more about floats and popping cork how do you use it? Everyone quickly develops their own techniques, but here are the basics.

1. Tie fluorocarbon leader, under the cork to keep your bait about a foot off the bottom. Depending on the bait you’re using you might also place a small split-shot 8 to 10 inches above the bait.

2. Make your cast allowing everything to settle in the water, much like using a topwater lure.

3. While keeping your rod tip down at about a 45 degree angle periodically snap the rod tip using your wrist. This allows the cork to displace the most water and when done properly the cork should make a gulping sound.

4. Allow the cork to settle for about a minute or two and repeat the process until everything disappears.

5. Finally, when the strike comes do not snatch back on the rod, instead quickly take up the slack, get the line tight and give a short quick tug to set the hook.

Three rules to fishing: Bait your own hook, clean your own fish, and tell your own lies…

No one is certain when we began experimenting with hooks. However archeologists estimate the oldest ever found was about 9,000 years old. Called a “gorge,” it’s actually one of earliest tools used to catch fish. It was a piece of wood, bone, or stone about an inch in length, pointed at both ends and secured in the middle to the line and covered with some kind of bait. When a fish swallowed the gorge, a pull on the line wedged it across the fish’s throat.

At some point they began changing the design to create the curved “J” shaped hook commonly used today. Scientists in Norway have discovered a cache of such hooks made from bone and estimated to be 7,000 to 8,000 years old.

Fish hooks where developed to meet the demands of different fishing techniques and species. If you want to catch it on a hook and line there is something available.

How Big Is Enough? Small hooks catch big fish and also do less damage. I have friends that fly fish and the fish they catch on the smallest hook is outrageous. They all confirm it’s not uncommon to catch big fish on small flies. Experienced live bait anglers will tell you to judge the size hook by the size of bait. If you’re using small baits, the last thing you want is to weigh it down with an oversize hook.

For snook or redfish I use #1 or 1/0 circle hook when using small live pilchards and for inshore snapper a #1 or #2 circle hook works great. However, when it comes to Tarpon or sharks I’ll up size depending on the species and size. As an example on not oversizing; we continually catch large hundred-plus pound tarpon on 4/0 – 5/0 circle hooks.

The most common argument about hook size usually relates to the “straightening of the hook.” Believe me when I tell you, a good quality hook and properly set reel drag will not let a hook straighten. In ninety percent of the cases a straightened hook relates to hook quality and drag setting, rather than size.

Hook Size: What the numbers actually mean is simply formula used to define hook sizes. Sizes are based on a nominal hook size of zero. Hooks with a number followed by a zero “increase” in size as the numbers go up. Hooks not followed by a zero, “decrease” in size as the numbers increase.

Here’s an example of increasing size hooks: 5/0 hooks are one size larger than a 4/0 and two sizes larger than a 3/0. On the other hand, a number #5 hook is one size smaller than a number 4 and two sizes smaller than a number 3 hook.

Nearly all manufacturers follow this basic numbering system to indicate the increase or decrease in hook sizes, but with many different styles or patterns. Unfortunately there is little standardization for overall styles. What may be a size 4/0 in a Mustad or Daiichi may not be the same as a 4/0 in a Gamakatsu.

Treble hooks also follow this sizing convention; a treble is described by the size of any one of the hooks. For example a 4/0 treble hook is made up of three 4/0 hooks, while a number #4 treble is made up of three number #4 size hooks.

Multi Hooks: It is my opinion that treble and double hooks should be banned from fishing, because they do too much damage to fish and sometimes fishermen. If you are into catch and release you cannot in any perception of good conscience use treble or double hooks. What about lures? They can work with single barbless hooks. Suppose lure manufactures decided to go along with this idea, it would cause some reconfiguration and balancing adjustments, but would ultimately save money and time over conventional trebles. It would also save thousands of fish.

Extra Strength Hooks: The “X Factor” or other measurement used in identifying hook styles. These hooks are designed to provide as much strength as a hook one or two sizes up. Hooks marked “2x strong” or “2x” are made from wire as thick as the next size up, while a 3x hook is as thick as a hook two sizes up.  As an example a 2x – 4/0 hook has a wire thickness and strength of a 5/0 hook. A 3x – 4/0 hook has a wire thickness and strength of a 6/0 hook.

The other common x standard is the length of the hook shank. A ’2x long’ hook has a shank twice as long as standard hooks of the same size. A ’3x long hook’ has a shank 3 times as long as the standard sized hook.

A less common variant are ‘wide gape’ hooks. A wide gap is one where the gap or distance between the hook point and hook shaft is wider than the standard hook. Sometimes the wide gap hook is described as ’2x wide’ and the hook should have a gap twice as wide as the standard hook.

Wire, Forged or Stainless Hooks: Standard wire hooks are made from wire that is bent into shape, the point sharpened and barb added. The wire retains its rounded shape throughout the hook.

Forged hooks, once the shape has been made, the sides of the shank and bend are flattened making them much stronger than wire hooks, but more expensive. They are commonly used in saltwater by big game, trophy and competition anglers.

Although stainless hooks will not rust as fast as non-stainless hooks they have some disadvantages: they are softer and bend more easily, loose their sharpness, more expensive and because they do not degrade they are more harmful to fish that break a line.

Here’s a tip for you: Never store used hooks with new ones, especially around saltwater. Try to keep the new ones in their packaging until needed.

Sharpening Hooks: Two or three years ago the standard advice was to sharpen your hooks before using them. It was thought that new hooks where not sharp enough to use straight out of the package However, most hooks today are chemically or laser sharpened and trying to re-sharpen them actually dulls them.

Sharpening anything produces heat and too much heat reduces temper, and softens the material. This is true with hooks to much heat can lead to bending or breaking points. Always use a slow deliberate stroke being careful not to remove too much metal from the point. There is a fine line between a sharp point and a weak point. If there is not enough metal at the point, it can break or bend.

Barbs: Do we actually need hooks with barbs? It seems that barbs were initially introduced, not to hold fish, but to stop the bait from coming off the hook. A common thought is that barbs are there, so it’s harder for fish to get off the hook. Truthfully, you do not need a barbed hook to catch fish; just keep your line tight. It’s worth our reconsideration whether barbs are really necessary, since it does considerable damage when removed.

My point here is, in the days of catching fish to eat, it was natural to reduce the chances of losing your dinner. For anglers and anglerette’s today, the individual challenge is more important than the meal. Demonstrate your angling skill by using barbless hooks; after all you never let the line go slack, and if you do; oh well, that one got away… go get another one.

One final point about barbs; the first time you sink a barbed hook into a part of your body, and have to go through the drama of removing or having it removed, you will become a barbless believer.

To escape the sweltering heat, recreational boaters and jet skis, anglers often prowl the night looking for a few good fish. Night fishing is attractive to many anglers can loads of fun. If you think this it’s something you’re interested in, then hook up the boat and hit the water for some nighttime fishing and memorable outings.

Night fishing often presents an opportunity to catch the fish of a lifetime, while enjoying some peaceful, comfortable time on the water. Like most wildlife, fish become increasingly nocturnal, especially during the summer. This often means the trophies that lay dormant on deep structure, during the day, can be found prowling the shallows after the sun goes down.

Growing up in the Seminole Heights area of Tampa, Florida; I lived only a few blocks from the Sligh Avenue Bridge and the Hillsborough River. I would fish from the shore, the bridge and from my home made plywood boat with my dad’s second-hand 1½ horsepower Elgin outboard. As a youngster I spent many exciting hours fishing and exploring the river.

 One favorite fishing activity was night fishing from the bridge. We used a technique most of us old Tampa boys called “Swishing.” It involved an extra-long heavy bamboo cane pole, rigged with 24 to 36 inches of Dacron line, and an old Dalton Silver Flash topwater lure.

 It’s a simple technique rarely used today; in fact I can’t remember the last time I crossed a bridge and saw someone swishing with a cane pole. Anyhow, here’s how it’s done. We would bend over the bridge railing, point the pole down toward the water; then in a figure eight pattern, we’d work the lure slowing around the bridge pilings and fenders. The strike anticipation was unnerving and it usually didn’t take long before a night prowling snook would strike, almost jerking the pole from your hands. Depending on the size, we’d often just lift the fish onto the bridge, however for the larger ones we’d walk them over to the bank.

While this seems to be a technique from the past; today, there is plenty of excellent nighttime fishing going on around the area. Fishing structure and more importantly structure with lights always produces nice fish. Why lights? Simply, light draws bait, which draws fish. Realistically, any structure attracts bait, but if it has lights on at night it really attracts bait and quality fish.

West central Florida’s coastline offers plenty of inter-coastal waterways, canals, rivers and creeks with thousands of bridges and docks, many with lights. So, why not take advantage of this “fish in a barrel” scenario and use it to our advantage.

Night Fishing Plan: If you’re planning on night fishing; hopefully you don’t go unprepared. Plan your attack carefully and learn the area you intend to fish. Put together a fishing plan by identifying the important things you should know before it gets dark; shallow areas, unlighted obstructions, and channels can certainly cause problems, if you’re not prepared for the unsuspected.

Since nighttime is normally the soundless part of every day, it’s important to remember to be “Quiet”. Fish holding around docks and bridges will acclimate themselves to everyday noises, but any unusual, loud or sudden noise can send them scurrying away. Veteran nighttime anglers make their approach using a trolling motor (on low) or drifting/poling to within casting distance being careful to never crowd the target.

Examine and study the water as you approach any structure. Study the layout and lighted areas looking for shadows. Look carefully and you’ll often you’ll see them darting in and out feeding on passing baits. Here’s where patience pays off; wait and watch for a few minutes as it gives you time to identify their feeding pattern. This can make or break a spot, as proper bait and lure presentation is paramount.

When using artificial’s present them from the same direction as the current, Active currents bring food to waiting fish, so it only makes sense that your lure should come from the same direction. Cast your lure up current into the shadows, twitching it through the light line into the light.

Stealthy Anglers Win: Here’s a final thought about night fishing especially around residential docks. Not everyone’s as nocturnal as nighttime anglers. Remember, people are sleeping and probably could care less that you caught a 10 pound snook, so regardless of how elated you are, try keeping the hooray’s down to dull roar. Making loud noises especially late in the night annoys property owners, which forces them to turn off their dock lights. Just a little common sense and consideration is all it takes to keep a good thing going.

“Give Me a Call & Let’s Go Fishing” Captain Woody Gore is the area’s top outdoor fishing guide. Guiding and fishing the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas for over fifty years; he offers world class fishing adventures and a lifetime of memories.

Single or Multi-boat Group Charters are all the same. With years of organizational experience and access to the areas most experienced captains, Woody can arrange and coordinate any outing or tournament. Just tell him what you need and it’s done.  Visit his website at: WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM, send an email to wgore@ix.netcom.com or give him a call at 813-477-3814.

There is something mystical about arriving on an early morning grass flat. As a pre-dawn fog begins slowly lifting you quietly ease the trolling motor into the water. Slowly making your way into your favorite Redfish area your fishing pal remarks, “I can’t believe no one else is around”.

 Glass flat water and a light fog make a perfect morning to work topwater lures across a broken bottom grass flat. Picking up your rod and sending your favorite lure rocketing through the morning air you turn to you pal and say, “First fish for a buck”. “You’re on”, he mutters back.

 As the ripples disappear you begin a longtime technique of walking-the-dog. This is where the lure bobs from side to side with each twitch of the rod. You’ve done it a thousand times, but are never ready for the adrenaline rush that comes when a fish swirls on your lure. The thought barely clears you mind and it happens… a large Redfish attacks and grabs your the lure, “Fish-On dude, get out your wallet.”

 This scenario plays out thousands of times a year around the state and particularly the Tampa Bay area. “Redfish” are built to brawl and often disciplines some of today’s top inshore anglers. Over the last decade, Reds, as they’re often referred to” have become a major target throughout the south and is the fish to catch in Tampa Bay.

 Always popular as table fare and before management controls; redfish gained renewed popularity when New Orleans Chef Paul Prudhomme began serving the well-liked recipe known as “blackened redfish”. Inshore anglers had uncontrolled size and bag limits and the large offshore breeder schools, became easy targets for commercial netters. In jeopardy of overfishing, as early as November 1986, Marine Fisheries Commission began its first attempt at regulating this fashionable species. In 1989 they closed redfish to commercial harvest and instituted a no closed season, but an 18 to 27 inch slot limit, and a limit of one fish per angler per day. Life was again good for redfish anglers. Now this fish has gained popularity as a tournament target. Over the last 15 to 20 years, like freshwater bass, redfish became the object of many catch and release tournaments throughout the southern United States.

 Where’s the fish? With Tampa bay being approximately 35 miles long and at the furthermost point 12 miles wide; that’s a lot of water, so where are the fish? Tampa’s shallow grass flats extend from every shore; offering excellent fishing for shore bound anglers, boaters, and waders. There are also excellent opportunities from fishing piers.

 What to look for: When approaching an area especially on outgoing or low tides, stay alert the ever enticing black dotted tails sticking out of the water. Tails up and heads down is a sure sign that redfish are actively feeding. You might think, with their heads down they’re easy targets, but don’t be fooled; they have exceptional eyesight and even better hearing. It’s often said, “A redfish can hear you change your mind”. At other feeding times; as tides raise they travel into the many mangrove root systems flourishing along Tampa’s shore. A haven for everything from crabs to small baitfish the mangroves offer a buffet of delicacies for hungry reds. Regardless, whether you fish high or low tides fish migrate toward structure; the reason, it holds food.   

 Catching Redfish: Usually, searching for food, reds are never bashful about attacking anything that’s looks enticing. Artificial lures will catch redfish; the key is making it look tantalizing enough to interest a hungry fish. On the other hand natural bait anglers use live pilchards, pinfish and shrimp, but sometimes they just won’t chase artificials or live bait. This is where dead stinky cut bait, on a circle hook and left on the bottom comes into play.

 The Net Ban: Amendment Three of the Florida Constitution, otherwise known as the net ban, was approved by voter referendum in November 1994 and implemented in 1995 and greatly improved our Tampa Bay fishery. Fishing the bay area for over 50 years I’ve witnessed a fishing revival to the point you can readily catch Redfish, Snook, Trout, Tarpon, Mackerel, or just about any other species common to Florida’s west central coast.

 Mornings and time on the water makes everything worthwhile. I shudder to think that someday this will be lost forever. Unless we get involved and start conserving our natural resources, our ever-exploding population, and quest for the all mighty dollar will ultimately destroy the few we have left. If you do not think they’re not being threatened and already disappearing… just look around. It is everyone’s responsibility to protect these precious environmentally sensitive resources. If we do not speak up and accept the task… who will?

  ”Give Me a Call & Let’s Go Fishing” Captain Woody Gore is the areas top outdoor fishing guide. Guiding and fishing the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas for over fifty years; he offers world class fishing adventures and a lifetime of memories.

 Single or Multi-boat Group Charters are all the same. With years of organizational experience and access to the areas most experienced captains, Woody can arrange and coordinate any outing or tournament. Just tell him what you need and it’s done.  Visit his website at: WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM, send an email to wgore@ix.netcom.com or give him a call at 813-477-3814.

Would you believe the favorite inshore bait and more commonly known as Pilchard, Whitebait or Greenback?

The scaled sardines, pilchard, greenbacks, whitebait, snook candy or the scientific name: Harengula Jaguana is found from the coastal waters of the western Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico down to Brazil. This fast growing scaled sardine is a pelagic schooling fish averaging 4 to 6 inches and making excellent bait for most Florida species. A herring like fish it has a dark back, silver sides and white belly.  This spring through fall “go-to” bait is the choice for serious live bait anglers. Usually caught with a cast net; some anglers use “Sabiki rigs”.

 Early spring they start showing up around bridges and buoys and as the waters warm they move onto shallow grass flats. When searching the flats, experienced anglers look for raindrop like tinkling on the surface with an occasional flip. Once you’ve seen the first time, it will become more recognizable in the future. Experienced netters also know that chumming draws them within net throwing range. What kind of chum do you use to attract them?

 Chum: Chum is chum right, not necessarily. Ask any live bait netter, and you’ll never get the same answer. Typically everyone invents their own concoction; with several requiring some fancy mixing using a variety of ingredients like; sand, oatmeal, rice, macaroni, dog food, cat food, sardines, fish oil, anise, soybeans, cornmeal, and bread. However, probably the number one ingredient for any chum is fish oil. Not just any oil, but the stomach-turning stinky stuff called menhaden oil. This is without a doubt the most awful stuff you will ever put your hands in and if you get it on your clothing, forget it, because it never comes out.

 A Simple Two-ingredient Mixture, that works every time. It’s a combination of powdered commercial fish meal or tropical fish food and menhaden oil. Fish meals are available at most bait and tackle stores and larger agricultural feed stores, but if buying from a feed store it only comes in 45 to 50 pound bags. If buying in bulk, I suggest storing it in air tight containers; I use two five gallon buckets with tight fitting lids.

 Getting Ready to Get Bait: In a ½ gallon bucket mix 8 cups of fish meal with two-cups, of that great smelling, menhaden oil. If it’s too thick, thin it by gradually adding saltwater and you are ready to start chumming. Some anglers will add a can or two of jack mackerel for good measure, but keep in mind; this will also attract pinfish and catfish. Setup near the bait and begin tossing small amounts in their direction. The mixture should disperse, sink slowly and create a fine oil slick on the water.

 Cast Net: In general, a 1/4 to 3/8 inch, lightweight net works great on the flats, because the lighter weight pulls less grass and is easier to throw. A heavier 3/8 to 1/2 inch net is normally required around deeper structure and bridges, especially those with strong currents.

 What’s a Scaled Sardine – What’s a Threadfin Herring: A question often asked is what is the difference between a pilchard and a threadfin? It is not hard to distinguish one from the other once seen side-by-side.

 A scaled sardine, has a slightly larger head and eye, predominately-sharper belly, no ray from dorsal fin, olive to dark green back, silver sides and belly and a faint dark spot on the upper gill plate.

 The threadfin is distinguishable at a glance by the prolonged last ray of its dorsal fin. With a bluish-black back, silver sides and belly. Their scales along the back have dark centers, and there is a dark spot just behind the upper gill plate cover. This predominate difference is the dorsal fin ray.

 In closing, many of our local tackle retailers carry fish food, jack mackerel and menhaden oil and just about everything else you need in the way of tackle, bait and riggings. Moreover, unlike larger discount or sports stores, if they do not have what you are looking for they will get it for you. They are also a great place to get current fishing reports, information and recommendations on tackle, or if you just want to talk fishing, someone is usually around to spin a yarn or two. Stop in and visit your local tackle dealer soon.

 “Give Me a Call & Let’s Go Fishing” Captain Woody Gore is the areas top outdoor fishing guide. He is also an outdoor writer, photojournalist, and speaker. Woody has guided the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas for over fifty years, and offers memorable fishing adventures.

 Single or multi-boat charters for larger parties are all the same. Tell me what you need and leave the rest to me. Woody’s website is located at: WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM or give him a call at 813-477-3814

CATCH AND RELEASE IS GOOD – WHEN DONE PROPERLY

Catch-and-release angling is on the increase, which means many anglers are starting to view the process as a conservation practice. Mostly voluntary at this point catch-and release is being federally mandated in certain areas, to conserve our marine fisheries.

There is generally a lack of understanding regarding the level of mortality associated with the practice despite its widespread use. Folks believe that just putting a fish back means it’s going to survive; not so! Regardless of good intentions, the lack of understanding and the many variations in release and handling fish are till dying. Fortunately, the increase in catch-and-release has coincided with an increase in research and general recommendations based on available information.

Lactic Acid: Should be a major concern for light tackle anglers. Fish employ two basic muscle groups red and white. The red or dark muscle has a rich blood supply running the length of the fish. These are aerobic in nature burning oxygen derived from the gills. They aid in swimming, and also allow the fish to maintain its position in a current.

The fleshy part of a fish consists of white muscles; used occasionally for seizing food, they’re mostly used to evade predators. A hook and line constitutes a predator; white muscles are used as they struggle to avoid capture. Depending on the fight time, enormous quantities of energy, generated when glycogen based carbohydrates, metabolize.

This destabilization of glycogen, in the bloodstream, triggers huge build-ups of lactic acid. This acid buildup leads to acute stress levels and repression of the immune system can eventually cause death.

Humans have similar anaerobic muscles that also create lactic acid. If you’ve ever exerted yourself, like lifting weights at the gym, you may notice an intense burn prior to complete fatigue. Conveniently we often recover from this acid buildup within a matter of minutes. Fish on the other hand, are not as fortunate, it often takes 12 to 14 hours and as much as 72 hours for complete recovery.

Any lengthy hook and line struggle burns excessive white muscle fuel, which results in total exhaustion and eventual surrender. Just because it swims away after release does not

guarantee its survival. Today, with many anglers claiming environmental consciousness, we must take into account: 1.) the longer the battle, the more exhaustion 2.) the more exhaustion the more lactic acid 3.) the more lactic acid the longer recovery time. Keep in mind, complete exhaustion and shortened recovery times often prove fatal; they’re unable to avoid natural predators or hunt down food. Ensuring a faster recovery becomes the responsibility of every responsible angler It’s up to us to enjoy the battle, but end it quickly, before the fish reaches the point of no return.

Keep em’ wet: Getting the hook out, taking a photograph and admiring your catch takes time… Time out of water is a determinate to survival. Gills sophisticated and delicate organs designed to work in water where they excrete carbon dioxide while simultaneously absorbing oxygen. The fragile gill lamellae quickly collapse when exposed to air. When this occurs, bad carbon dioxide levels (CO2) increase and good oxygen levels (O2). Basically, the fish cannot breathe efficiently when returned to the water.

The physiological response to catch-and-release practices is relatively well understood, little is known about the cumulative impact of sub-lethal stressors. Studies conducted at the Queen’s University in Ontario confirmed the mortality rate relates directly to gill damage suffered from prolonged exposure to air. During the study 28% or 3 out of 10 fish exposed to air and released within 60 seconds survived, the other 72% died within 12 hours. Further, minimal exposure for 30 seconds or less increased the survival rate to 6 out of 10 and those not exposed to air, substantially increased to 9 out of 10.

Catch-and-Release Guidelines: While catch-and-release is physiologically stressful; stress and trauma can minimize mortality by following some general guidelines. Most catch-and-release research has focused on examining species-specific responses to potential factors affecting mortality. The following recommendations are given to reduce catch-and-release mortality for most species.

Angling Techniques:
• Daiichi Circle hooks will minimize the chance of deep hooking.
• Barbless hooks are easier to remove and reduce handling time.
• The use of artificial lures should be encouraged.
• Fishing lines left unattended have a greater chance of deep hooking.
• Fishing line should be adequate for species being sought. It prevents line breakage and reduces on-hook time.
• Hot and cold water temperatures affect survival. There are times when good intentions fail, especially during cold and warm months. Now you face the decision of keeping it for dinner or returning it to the food chain. If you’re keeping it for dinner, make certain it’s within the legal limits.

Landing Fish:
• Fish should be retrieved quickly to prevent exhaustion.
• Fish should be landed by a wet hand, where possible.
• Landing nets when required should be knotless and made of soft rubber. Frabill offers a complete line of Conservation Series Nets.
• When landing extremely large fish, consider using a landing cradle.

Handling and Photographing:
• Always use wet hands.
• Never place your fingers through gills or in the eyes.
• Never hold heavy fish by the jaw, it can damage the jaw and vertebrae.
• Hold fish horizontally to avoid damage to the internal organs.
• Keep fish in the water to minimize gill exposure to air.
• Have camera ready prior to landing.
• Photograph the fish in water, when possible.

Un-hooking Fish:
• Have long nose pliers available to back the hook out.
• Remove the hook quickly, keeping the fish underwater.
• Cut the line close to the hook, if deeply hooked and release quickly.
• Avoid stainless steel hooks they take longer to corrode.

Revival:
• When there is current hold the fish upright facing the current.
• Without a current, gently move fish back and forth until gill movements return to normal and it can maintain its balance.
• When the fish begins to struggle, let go and watch.

Fatigue, sub-level stressors, and air contribute to fish mortality. Anglers intentionally extending a battle with ultra-light tackle, usually signs a death warrant for the unwilling participant. Longer than needed battles creates unnecessary stress levels resulting total exhaustion and sometimes death. Knowing your target and common sense should dictate tackle requirements.

We must educate ourselves about the proper techniques to ensure their survival when catching and releasing these wonderful creatures. Encouraged it, and become an ethical angler by releasing your catch with minimal damage.

Captain Woody Gore is an outdoor writer, photojournalist, and speaker. He also guides fishing charters in the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas. Fishing these areas for over fifty years he offers memorable fishing adventures. Capt Woody’s website is located at: WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM or give him a call at 813-477-3814

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com