Better – Brighter – Longer Lasting

What is an LED? As lighting technology improves almost everyone has seen or will see this small bright light. Actually they are an electronic light source created from a light-emitting-diode, and so the name LED. Invented in the early 20th century and introduced as a practical electronic component in 1962 these early devices emitted a low-intensity red light, but modern LED’s are now available across the color spectrum and capable of producing a very high brilliance. Applications of LED’s are widely diverse often used as new equipment or as low-energy replacements for traditional lighting.

Without getting into how they’re actually manufactured, let’s say it’s simple but complex. Although small they produce a bright light source with advantages over traditional lighting. Some of these advantages include longer life, improved brightness, smaller size lower amperage draw, and instant-on capability.

To work properly in the marine environment LED’s are hermetically sealed for protection against the environment and other corrosive elements. To ensure long life, the most reliable sealing method is encapsulating the circuit board and LED diodes in a material that is impervious to outside industrial, road and marine environments.

The most common application for LED’s in the boating industry is trailer lighting. However, boat manufacturers around the world are quickly jumping on the LED band wagon. Primarily because of improved intensity, color combinations and low operating amperage draws.

Boat and utility trailers for example, take a tremendous amount of abuse. They are continually exposed to elements including fresh and salt water, rough roads and rougher boat ramps. Therefore, to produce a long-life light source like LED’s means that greater care must be taken during their design and manufacture. While this translates to a higher principal cost it also means lower replacement costs over the life of the trailer. With some research you can find an excellent LED trailer lighting kit priced somewhere between $50 and $75 dollars.

On a personal not and because I trailer my rig over 200 days each year, at night and in heavy stop and go traffic I switched to LED lighting a couple of years ago. I like the added brightness and feel that when towing, especially in stop and go traffic the vehicles behind me can see the brighter lights.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Three simple things that might save your life.

In actuality, on the water life insurance comes from money spent on things like VHF radios, life rafts, first aid equipment, navigation equipment and EPIRB’S (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon).

Many times when fishing offshore you’re out there alone. While this is not necessarily a good idea it does happen and being miles offshore can result in tragedy or death should the weather turn bad. Recently, we lost several anglers to just this situation and with the proper planning and equipment it might have been avoided. Remember, just because you fish inshore you still need proper planning and safety equipment.

VHF Radio – Although recreational vessels less than 65 ½ feet in length are not required to have VHF radios it still should be your first purchase before anything else. Also mobile satellite telephones provide easier and clearer communications if you plan to travel more than a few miles offshore and are becoming more common and less costly. You should strongly consider purchasing mobile satellite telephone, an EPIRB (emergency position indicating radio beacon), and a second VHF radio or cellular telephone as backup. If you frequently boat of fish offshore you might consider having an HF radiotelephone, simply because they will receive high seas marine weather warnings.

Cellular phone or Marine Radio – While the Coast Guard does not advocate cellular phones as a substitute for the regular maritime radio distress and safety systems they do understand that cellular phones can have a place on board as an added measure of safety. Never rely exclusively on a cellular phone as there is no comparison between cellular phones and a VHF marine radio. If you have a portable or hand-held cellular telephone, by all means take it aboard. If you are boating far off shore, a cellular phone is no substitute for a VHF radio. But, if you are within cellular range, it may provide an additional means of communication.

Cellular phones have limitations during an emergency. Generally they cannot provide ship to ship communications or communications with other rescue vessels. If you make a distress call on a cellular phone, only the party you call will be able to hear you. Since cellular phones are designed for a land-based service, their limited offshore coverage could create a communications problem in the event of an emergency.

On the other hand, VHF marine radios were designed with safety in mind and can be used anywhere in the United States or around the world. If you are in distress, calls can be received not only by the Coast Guard but by ships or other vessels which may be in position to give immediate assistance. A VHF marine radio also helps ensure that storm warnings announced by the Coast Guard on VHF channel 16 are received. The timely receipt of such information may save your life.

EPIRB’s – A small battery-powered transmitting device that is carried on board and as the name implies, it is used only in case of a true emergency when your marine radio is inoperable or out of range.

There are several types of EPIRB’s. If disaster strikes, some float free and automatically activate; others must be activated manually. All EPIRB’s will float and send out a continual signal for 48 hours. Once you activate the EPIRB leave it on to make sure the signal is available for detection by passing satellites and for purposes of homing in on your location.

EPIRB’s that operate on 121.5/243 MHz (Category II) are the least expensive and least capable of saving your life. They cost around $400.00 and were designed in the 1970′s to alert passing aircraft. Often, multiple passes by satellites are required to identify the signal, which can definitely delay any rescue attempt. (I do not recommend this unit.)

On the other hand the 406 MHz EPIRB (Category I) which includes a 121.5 MHz signal which is mainly used for homing and cost around $1400.00. I know what you’re thinking, $1400.00… think of all the tackle I could buy for that much money.  My question to you; what is your life worth? And remember, you could have your family, the most precious thing in the world, onboard when tragedy strikes and that’s when you need immediate emergency response.
Response time to the 406 EPIRB is significantly reduced and the position information it provides is much more precise. In a recent test of the 406 MHz model, a Naval Academy midshipman found out how effective it was. The test signal was identified within four minutes and pinpointed within 15 minutes. This should help convince you that when trying to save a few dollars you could be betting against your life

When you purchase a 406 EPIRB’s can register your it and part of the coded signal will include your name, address, phone number, vessel description, and an emergency contact onshore who should know your plans and capabilities. Once the satellite picks up the signal and transmits it back, the search and rescue team knows where you are and who you are.

A Float Plan could save your life… always leave a float plan and give it to a friend or relative. Tell them where you’re boating or fishing, who’s with you and when you expect to return. Give a detailed description of you vessel – including the name, year, make, model, hull color and registration numbers and any other identifying markings. Also indicate whether you trailer your boat or keep it at a marina. If you trailer, leave the information about where you launched giving the color, make, model, and license plate number of your tow vehicle. If you keep the vessel at a marina give the phone number and address of the marina.

A good float plan details what safety, communications, and survival equipment you have onboard. It tells how many passengers, their names, addresses, and contact information. It also details the destination, departure date, departure time, departure location and expected time of arrival.
Here are a few ideas that might also be helpful: If you go out alone and do not have friends or family members nearby, you can still file a float plan. If you trailer your boat and launch from a boat ramp, leave the information in your vehicle. If you keep your boat in a marina, file a float plan with a fellow boater or with the dock-master.

When a person or vessel is reported as overdue, be prepared to give as much information as possible. The Coast Guard and rescue workers need to know as much information as possible. If you’re not prepared to relay pertinent enough information it could result in an ineffective search and possibly in the wrong direction or location. After being reported overdue and you’re fortunate enough to return safely call to the Coast Guard, so they can close the case and bring their rescue crews home.

We are often our own worst enemy’s and not being prepared could cost you, a loved one or your friend their life.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Instead of purchasing a new spinning reel sometimes opting for a good cleaning makes the old one look and feel like new.

Serious anglers use their equipment often which means it frequently takes a beating, especially around saltwater. And you can be assured sooner or later its getting dunked. With the increasing price of fishing tackle particularly rods and reels people tend to take exceptional care of their equipment by washing and properly storing it after each trip. But regardless of how careful it’s treated for some reason and at exactly the wrong time the reel handle begins sticking and the gears sound like they are full of sand. Right away you’re thinking about a shinny new reel but the thought of convincing the wife why you need a new one makes you shudder.

A good cleaning and some maintenance is a solution that usually takes care of those dirty fishing reel blues, which by the way sounds like an old jazz song. And a cold winter day is a great time to do it.

If you lack the basic mechanical abilities or are not the “Do it yourself” type there are plenty of reputable repair facilities willing to do it for you. However, if you prefer doing it yourself, read on.

Here’s a quick tip I often give… Practically everyone today, has a digital camera so why not take advantage of it. If you’re not sure you’ll remember how things go back together, take a few close-up digital photographs before and during disassembly, print them and use during reassembly.

Over the years, fishing reel lubricants have evolved from barely refined motor oils to technologically advanced lubricants containing superior adhesion and bonding properties. This new generation of oils and greases greatly reduces friction and dispels water. Although cost is appreciably higher these added performance lubricants are worth the investment, so keep some on hand and in the tackle box.

Alright let’s get started, it’s going to take about an hour or two depending on how many reels you’re cleaning. Find a clean hard surface preferably in the garage with good lighting. Next gather a few old rags, an old white hand towel, and a chair. Get a couple of small straight blade and Phillips head screwdrivers, a small pair of needle nose pliers, an old toothbrush or thick artist brush and some alcohol or mineral sprits. You’ll also need a couple of small containers for securing small parts removed from the reel. This is important and I suggest working over a small white hand towel because those miniature washers and screws are virtually impossible to find if dropped on the floor.

Begin by removing the spool and reel handle, clean them and set aside. Remove the rotor nut retaining screw, nut and remove the rotor. On the rotor, loosen the line roller assembly located on the bail, lubricate bearing and roller and retighten. Also oil the opposite end of the bail where it connects to the rotor housing and set aside.

From this point and using the small brushes and cleaning solutions you’re going to remove and clean parts and housings as necessary.

Next remove the side plate taking care not to loose the small, usually plastic washers located on the screws. When possible, remove and clean the main gear and its two bearings, clean each one and set aside. Now remove and clean only the remaining readily accessible parts and gear case. You’re ready to put it back together.

Start by air drying the parts or using very low air pressure. With the newest lubricants apply a light coating of reel grease to the main and worm gear teeth. Oil the main gear, anti reverse and main shaft bearings and reassemble into the gear case. Remember, grease gets sticky so use oil whenever possible. Install the gear case cover and oil the main shaft before installing rotor. If necessary, re-spool with new line and reset the drag tension. Finally, test everything making certain its operating correctly.

Now all that’s left is getting out on the water for that next great fishing adventure; with a reel that probably feels and looks like new.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Not just another pretty face, a pretty fish…

Spotted Sea Trout… Speckled Trout as us crackers call them are on fire along the west coast of Florida. The Southern Region opened January 1^st and high numbers including some really large fish are being caught daily.

It’s not often I get a chance to fun fish, but recently my son Capt. Mike and I took a morning to toss some artificial lures around a few inter-coastal docks. Starting early we pitched jigs under and around some promising looking docks in hopes of hooking a couple of redfish.

The wind was light and except for the gin clear water it was a good time to fish docks. Moving along the outside edges, Mike kept saying, “Look at the size of that trout.” Finally I moved up to bow and he was absolutely right. Big trout after big trout would scoot out of potholes then bury into the grass. When I say big, what I really mean is huge I estimated many upwards of five to seven pounds.

As expected these shallow water fish were weary of any noise or motion but we started fishing away from the docks toward the broken bottom grass flats. We did manage to land several fish on a Gulp Shad. Of course dad landed the big one and it took some convincing before Mike took the picture. Every father knows how competitive a son can be, but after years of fishing with dad, he’s getting used to it. Although I will admit, he occasionally gets lucky and whips the old man good.

If you’re interested in this marvelous fish here are a few thoughts on catching one of the most beautiful fish in our waters.

Looking for gators: Many anglers’ fish over deep water grass, but here’s secret most giant hunters won’t tell you? If you’re looking really big gator’s… the ones with bright big yellow mouths the size of a coffee can – “go shallow” and fish broken bottom potholes. Keep in mind, shallow water fish get real spooky to noise and commotion which sends them running. Depending on the time of year and water conditions sometimes it’s better to just get out and wade.

Light to medium weight tackle: A 7 or 7 ½ foot light to medium action spinning combination spooled with 10 to 15 lb braid is the preferred choice of most inshore anglers. You get good casting distance and the braid is very sensitive to strikes. It’s also a good idea to use a leader. Not the store bought wire variety with swivels and weights but a single length of 20 to 30 lb. monofilament about 18 inches long and tied to your braid using a Double-Uni or Triple Surgeons knot.

Live shrimp, small pinfish or greenbacks free lined or under a popping cork constantly produce fish. On the other hand, at times they are not actively feeding or seem restless, so switch to dead bait, a little slower fishing but it usually produces.

For some “reel” excitement: Learn to use artificial lures. Fished correctly artificial’s on average out fish live baits. Here’s the premise behind that statement. By continually casting lures you cover a larger area thus exposing it to more fish. In theory you end up taking the bait to the fish, rather than waiting for a fish to find the bait.

Check an artificial angler tackle box and you’ll find lures of various shapes, sizes and colors. Topwater, suspending, and diving plugs, and spoons are all time favorites but soft plastics are essential for trout. Whether you rig them on a jighead or weedless they require a twitch and retrieve action that triggers the strike, between twitches as the lure falls. We usually get a first-class trout bite during the winter months, so keep in mind as water temperatures drop so should your presentation. To maximize cold water presentations slow it down often working it along the bottom.

Larger fish in our future: The past years of Red Tide certainly took its toll on trout killing thousands in Tampa Bay alone. In fact it wasn’t until a couple of years ago we where lucky to even see a trout let alone catch one.

Hopefully, over the next few years provided we can avoid any serious bouts of Red Tide. It could be possible to see some our west coast sea trout equaling their east coast cousins.

Fish for dinner: Nothing beats a fresh fish dinner especially the day it’s caught. Try taking only what you can eat at one time. Most fish especially trout do not freeze well and not stocking the freezer gives you a good reason to go fishing.

Take a Kid Fishing: One of the most significant things we can do as adults is teach our children about fishing and take them. So with patience, teach in such a way they learn to respect for our resources and comprehend the essentials necessary to understand the future benefits.

Everyone should consider fishing as a privilege not a right and we should never take it for granted… whenever possible practice catch and safe release.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Tying knots began before the dawn of history when man tied a stone to a stick. Through the years knots have been associated with primitive religion, folklore, magic, and superstitions. Tying knots have numerous of uses and a biological study found that man is not the only species to use knots. Gorillas use them to hold saplings down in their nests. In one nest two dozen knots were counted, most were granny knots but some were square knots. There is a particular species of bird that ties knots in the construction of its nest. And there are still primitive races that fasten their huts, traps and even clothing with knots.

With the hundreds of knots available today anglers put too much emphasis on knowing how to tie every one. In fact when it comes to fishing whether it’s fresh or saltwater, inshore or offshore the average angler only needs to master four or five knots relating directly to their methods of fishing. Learning to effectively tie a few simple knots enables you to catch whatever species you’re targeting. For example, on inshore charters I only use five knots, a Uni Knot, Double-Uni Knot, Triple Surgeons, Loop Knot and the occasional Spider Hitch.

After you’ve chosen the knots for your particular application and regardless which knot you prefer, tying it correctly is essential for achieving fish catching success. A large proportion of losses can be blamed on poorly tied knots. Therefore, it’s essential that you spend an extra second or two to insure your knots are tied properly. By using the elements listed below your knots should retain their breaking strength.

1. Practice, Practice, Practice… Take a length of fishing line, a hook with the point cut off, and practice until you can tie each knot correctly 25 time.
2. Always lubricate your knots with saliva as you pull them tight. This prevents damage to the line and allows the knot to pull tight.
3. Trim knots closely. A good knot, pulled tight, will not come loose. Close trimming prevents the knot from catching snags or weeds.
4. When you’re learning knots, the “tag end” sometimes called the working end is the end of the line used to tie the knot. The “standing end” is that part of the line coming from your fishing reel.
5. Always leave plenty of the tag end for tying knots so that you can tie them properly.
6. Pull up all ends when tightening the knot cinching them as tight as possible. If it slips in your hand, it will slip when you’re hooked up.
7. Once you find a knot that’s working for your particular type of fishing don’t forget it.

Originally designed to keep hooks attached to fishing line knots soon took on another aspect with the onset of artificial lures. They became more than just means of keeping a hook or lure on the line. They actually made a difference in how baits and lures performed. Fishing fresh or saltwater, with artificial lures your are trying to immolate the actions of a natural food source; so stands to reason that everything we can do to add realistic actions should help us catch fish.

There are many excellent knots in use today, especially when t here is a need to catch fish but one stands out as an intelligent choice. It provides artificial lures and natural baits the most realistic approach and appeal and it’s called a Loop Knot.

Actually loop knots have been use for decades but now with swim baits, top waters, diving and suspending lures along with a variety of soft plastics this knot has emerged as the go-to method of attaching lures to your fishing line.

When properly tied loop knots give lures and natural baits an element of free swimming action. An action you otherwise loose when using knots that secure your lure or hook directly to the line. Because it’s imperative to imitate a natural and lively food source this is an important knot and one you should learn to tie and use.

Perfecting the skill of proper casting and retrieve takes plenty of practice and sometimes years to master however, something as simple as a knot can have a discernible result on your overall success. With so many knots in use today often the slightest difference makes your bait seem more lively or natural… this subtle little different often triggers the strike you’ve waited for all day.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

As a kid who grew up with a passion for fishing always meant looking forward to Christmas because of the new tackle I would receive. Every Christmas morning, I would wade through the obligatory shirts, pants, and other clothes from aunts and grandparents, looking for the present that had my Dad’s distinctive handwriting on it. I learned very early to recognize his writing; as a Tampa police detective he wrote in a clear precise style, probably from all the reports he hated writing.

“To Woody” From Santa”, it would say, and it was always in his distinctive style. For reasons known only to my dad and Santa, Santa would have my Dad address the packages which I eagerly accepted without question.

On one particular Christmas in 1955, I was about eight and had opened everything but not yet found my fishing stuff. Had I been paying attention, I probably would have seen my Dad watching for my expressions. As it was and coming to the end of the presents and was beginning to get disappointed. Dad finally said, “I thought I saw something sticking up in the hedge when I got the paper this morning, why don’t you see what it was?”

Almost breaking the door down I raced outside toward the hedge and there it was. Sticking up in the hedge was a new rod and reel. Not just a kid’s model but a Shakespeare rod and Zebco 33 spin-cast reel, just like my dads. Christmas was now complete!

After Christmas dinner I spent the afternoon on my bike fishing the banks of the Hillsborough River. Bass, bream, snook and jacks could always be found in the warmer river waters. I caught some fish that day… I caught them on my new rod and reel with new line… the one my Dad addressed for Santa.

I hope all of you have a very Merry Christmas and a very Happy Holiday, wherever you are. May you be fortunate enough to receive a gift that will instill a lifetime memory! And may we always remember the reason we celebrate this wonderful time of year.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

The main objective for winter clean-up is getting things in order for next spring and summer. So why not take time check your rods, reels and tackle while old man winter discourages or at best diminishes our passion for fishing. Winter is also a great time to go through your tackle box. If you’re like me living near saltwater you have two different boxes one for salt and another for freshwater.

When was the last time you thoroughly cleaned your rods and reels? I’m talking the $19.95 special all the way up to the higher-end stuff everyone seems to want. Since fishing rods range in price from a few dollars to several hundred and reels even higher, it stands to reason that it’s important to keep them operating properly. Some high end reels will require special technical abilities to disassemble, clean and reassemble properly. Other less expensive models might only require some minor cleaning, oiling and maintenance. If you’re mechanically inclined do it yourself if not find an expert.

Rods are not as difficult as reels. Start with a through cleaning and checking for damage to the rod, handle or guides. A quick way to check guides is using a cotton swab. Run it through and around the guide if it’s cracked or chipped the cotton will find it. Clean the handles and lightly lubricate the reel seat assembly with a dry silicone lubricant.

Corrosion, dirt and grime are not your friend especially when it comes to your fishing reels. Dirty and corroded reels have ruined more than one fishing trip and preventative maintenance is the key. Spinning reels seem to be the most likely choice for saltwater anglers, however some still prefer baitcasters. Spinning reels are not that difficult to take down and reassemble. I’m not talking about removing every screw, gear, and bearing but, a field strip or just enough to clean out the old grease and oil then add new.

You can do it yourself but be certain to watch how things come apart so you can get it back together. I’m going to share a tip with you that can save hours of frustration and agony. It’s called the Digital Camera…. This handy little tool offers tremendous advantages particularly for us do ourselves types. When you get into new territory like cleaning a fishing reel, shotgun or anything else for that matter, make certain to take plenty of quality, close-up and in focus photos along the way. When it comes to putting it back together and you’re not sure where something goes just print the photos and your set. I’ve even go so far as to photograph the wiring on my television, VCR, disk player, and stereo system just in case I have to move it… I’ll know where the wires go.

The rods and reels are done but what about that old mono or braid fishing line? At least once a year, strip the old line off and re-spool with new. If using braid be sure to strip off the old backing, clean the spool and re-install new backing and line. Here’s a tip when using braid: Put a few drops of corrosion guard on the spool before you install the monofilament backing. Once the braid is installed, soak it thoroughly with Reel Magic before storing.

When using braided line be sure to consider your target species, remembering that braid is very strong for its size. Don’t over-kill your reel with heavy braid unless you need it. By using lighter line you’ll find casting distances will improve.If you’re a monofilament user wait keep in mind that mono has memory so wait until the season starts to install your line.

Open any tackle box especially us saltwater types, and it looks like an old gull nested in it. Dump everything out, clean the box, remove the rust stains, and install new lining. If you don’t need it and most of it we don’t’… get rid of it, the rusty hooks, swivels, sinkers, lures, or whatever is taking up space. I’ve heard it before because we’re all the same and our standard answer is “I can’t throw it out I might need it someday.” Yea, just like me… I haven’t used it in two years but I might need it. Just get rid of it!

Occasionally we need to bite the bullet and buy some new stuff. New stuff is always good and it gives us a chance to browse the tackle stores. Buy new hooks, sinkers, swivels, lures bobbers, line, leader, etc and you’ll be ready for next season. If your lures still have paint and are in fairly good shape buy some new trebles and split rings, it’s cheaper than replacing a perfectly good plug.

Once you have straightened out, cleaned out and emptied that old 40 pound tackle box, it should come in somewhere around 5 pounds and things are much easier to find. Now all you need is spring.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

The second owner boat market is full of used boats and while buying a one is never easy, recent hurricanes could lead to an increase in vessels for sale that may have sustained severe damage from recent storms. Quite often damaged boats are properly repaired and sold, but sometimes sellers don’t always tell the truth and finding out whether a boat has been hurricane damaged can be difficult. That difficulty is especially relative if cosmetic repairs have been made.

Here are some tips that could help protect you from inadvertently buying a hurricane damaged vessel.

Get a Survey: The boat looks brand new, but did you know that 12% of all boat damage is a result of a lack of proper maintenance? Do you know how to look ‘under the covers’ so to speak and know if the boat has been properly maintained? The surveyor “you” hire (not the seller or boat dealer) to inspect the boat has the knowledge and expertise to know what is proper and what is not. Therefore having a survey done by a professional and reputable independent surveyor is paramount, especially if you’re looking to invest thousands of hard earned dollars.

Selling Across State Lines: Buyer beware is an old time but true saying and boat seller’s wishing to obscure the boats history only needs to cross state lines to avoid detection. Unlike automobiles some states do not have laws requiring the titles of junked or salvaged boats be recognized as such. And only 36 states even have a requirement that powerboats be titled. Often the absence of a salvage title allows an unscrupulous seller to simply trailer the boat to another state and list it for sale with a dealer. Use caution if the seller unwilling to document where a boat has been berthed or registered for the past few years.

Erroneous Reporting: Although some internet websites allege to provide comprehensive background information on used boats, consumers should be dubious since there is no single clearinghouse for boat information. You could check the records of each boat by calling the boat registration agencies in every state but you must still be aware that, state boat registration records do not include information about accidents or insurance claims.

“As Is Condition” Could Equal Expensive Repairs: Protections afforded consumers by federal warranty laws and state implied warranties are limited when products are sold “as is”. Without a thorough inspection and pre-purchase survey, you may not find any storm-related damages until something major happens and repair efforts reveal the true extent of damage. Most insurance policies don’t cover preexisting conditions and won’t cover the repairs. If you do buy “as is”, consider adding a statement in the sales contract that says the seller has revealed everything they know about the boat’s preexisting and existing condition and all repaired damages.

Knowing Before You Purchase: For certain buyers purchasing a hurricane damaged vessel may be appealing, provided they have the time, budget, and sweat equity needed to facilitate repairs, However, knowing it’s a hurricane damaged boat is a must.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Recent proposals aimed at improving air quality may unconstructively impact many boater owners. It’s been discovered that E-10 gasoline is causing a number of problems to powerboat owners, especially those with older boats.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is requiring the use of oxygenated gasoline in an effort to improve air quality and numerous areas around the country are using an additive called Methyl Tertiary-Butyl Ether or MTBE, however due to its own environmental problems, ethanol is quickly replacing it. Ethanol is a high octane, biodegradable ethyl alcohol produced from renewable resources such as grain or wood. Because ethanol contains 35 percent oxygen by weight, it reduces carbon monoxide tail pipe emissions. Ethanol is blended with low octane fuels to produce a mix that is comparable to other fuels and blends of 10% percent ethyl alcohol and gasoline known as E-10 gas is now commonplace at all gas stations and marina fuel docks across the country.

Ethyl alcohol is a chemical solvent capable of causing damage to the sealants especially those used on older fiberglass fuel tanks resulting in leakage and potential fire hazards. Also because it’s a superb solvent, ethyl alcohol has a cleaning effect on other tanks resulting in the release of fine particles which pass through most fuel filters. These result in clogged fuel injector nozzles, carburetors, fuel system blockages, engine damage, and increased water fuel contamination most commonly known as phase separation.

Ethanol is hydroscopic, meaning it adsorbs water. When added to a water contaminated a fuel tank it combines together to produce a noncombustible layer of liquid that settles to the bottom of the tank. This is common during long storage periods.

Since fuel tanks have little room for expansion keeping it full limits the flow of air in and out of the vent thus reducing the chance of condensation (water) resulting from fluctuating temperatures. Whenever, water enters the E-10 fuel it quickly reacts with the ethanol thereby inviting phase separation. Once tanks are contaminated the only solution is completely draining the tank of fuel and water. This procedure is costly and dangerous and should be le ft to the professionals.

It appears the best defense for boaters is to keep your fuel tank clean of water and use adequate fuel filters and additives. There are fuel additives to help prevent phase separation and fuel gelling, thus helping to eliminate ethanol-related fuel problems. Most have an enzyme fuel additive that helps prevent phase separation by de-ionizing the fuel or neutralizing the electrical charges between water molecules. The de-ionization process breaks the electric bond of the water molecules preventing them from forming into large clusters or drops that settle to the bottom of the fuel tank. I use a Racor brand water separating fuel filter and fuel additives.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

This new ruling became effective on June 1 2008 and was implemented to end over-fishing in the Gulf’s red snapper fishery and reduce release mortality in reef fish. Florida also approved these measures to maintain consistency with the federal management plan.

In addition to other rules which will reduce the red snapper allowable catch both commercial fishers and recreational anglers targeting reef fish species, which includes all snappers, groupers, sea bass, amberjacks, gray triggerfish, hogfish, red porgy and golden tilefish in the Gulf of Mexico and Florida state waters to adhere to the new rulings.

The new rules require all commercial fishers and recreational anglers to have and use venting tools, de-hooking devices and non-stainless circle hooks when using natural baits either alive or dead.

Venting Tools – It’s unlikely you will catch fish requiring the use of a vent tool while inshore fishing. However the amendment states you must have a vent tool when fishing for Federal and State waters for any reef species. However, fish caught at depths over 50 feet and quickly brought to the surface by hook and line normally suffer from gas expansion in their swim bladder. This rapid pressure expansion is often enough to push the fish’s stomach out of its mouth. This pressure exerts considerable stress on internal organs resulting in serious injuries, if not quickly deflated. Fish released in this inflated condition it cannot return to comfortable depths and often floats away, consumed by other predators or dying from exposure.

All venting tools must be designed to inflict minimal damage to the fish, while allowing trapped gases to be released from the expanded swim bladder. This device must be a sharpened hollow instrument like a 16 gauge needle/hypodermic syringe w/plunger removed or 16 gauge needle fixed to a wooden handle. When venting the tool should be inserted 1 to 2 inches behind the pectoral fin at a 45 degree angle. It should only be inserted deep enough to help deflate the fish.

Anglers are using various devices including hypodermic needles. Angler and general public safety should be the number one concern when purchasing, using and discarding these devices. I recently found a company located in Tampa, Florida, named Team Marine USA. In my opinion they have taken venting and de-hooking to a new level with angler safety and fish welfare their foremost concern. They produce the safest and fish friendliest tool manufactured anywhere and it comes with a “lifetime warranty”.

Hypodermic syringes w/o plungers, non-locking needle devices, and needles in a wooden dowel in my estimation are not angler safe and the most dangerous to use. Why?

1. For starters hypodermic syringes where never designed for multiple use to prevent serious injury and infections. They are also bio-hazard devices and must be properly disposed at bio-hazard facilities… never put in the trash or thrown overboard to wash ashore.
2. Ever thy putting the needle cover back on in pitching or rolling sea you will probably get stuck?
3. The flimsy covers never stay on when stored in your tackle bag. The last thing you need is dirty needle with water born bacteria sticking out.
4. If you ever get stopped by Homeland Security, U.S. Coast Guard or local law enforcement and they find a syringe onboard. It will probably take some convincing to explain why you have drug paraphernalia in your possession.

De-hooking Tools – De-hooking devices or de-hookers are designed to safely remove a hook without it re-engaging the fish. They also prevent removal of the fish’s protective slime usually disturbed when handling fish during release. You can find in stores selling fishing supplies or you can also find them online at TeamMarineUSA.com. They must be blunted with rounded edges, and suitable for the size hook you are removing. Here are a few tips on how to use a de-hooker:

1. Use common sense, if you cannot see the hook its best left in the fish. Simply leave the fish in the water and cut the line as close to the hook as possible.
   

1. In most instances, especially with circle hooks, the hook is in the outer edges of the fish’s mouth. Grab the leader and place it into the up-ward facing “U” of the de-hooker and slide it into the hooks throat. Now holding the leader taught and below the fish, lift on the hook with a quick snap and the fish is released without touching it.

Non-Stainless Circle Hooks – Although inshore snapper seldom reach the size of offshore varieties you must still adhere to this particular change while in inshore waters, like Tampa Bay. The new amendment prohibits using anything other than circle hooks when using any form of natural bait. The only difference between Federal and Florida state waters is the type of circle hook. In Federal waters, beyond nine miles, any form of non-stainless circle hook is permitted. However, within Florida’s waters all non-stainless circle hooks must be classified as in-line and not off-set.

Circle hooks are designed so that the point is turned at right angles to the shank forming a circular shape. The main advantage is that fish are seldom deep-hooked and studies show that circle hooks normally hook in the outer parts of the mouth rather than the throat or gut. And by not using stainless steel, the hook usually deteriorates over time. However, studies also suggest that a deeply hooked fish’s survival rate increases if you simply cut the line as close as possible leaving the hook.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com