“I don’t need any sunscreen, it’s cloudy, and the suns not out are the all time excuses for not applying sun protection. Don’t be fooled, cloud cover does nothing to filter the sun’s damaging rays”.

The last thing any angler or boater wants is “close encounter of the sun kind” resulting serious skin damage from those commanding and powerful rays. Long considered the badge of an outdoor sportsman a dark tan can and often does lead to premature aging and wrinkles but that’s not the worst affect caused by the sun. Spending extensive periods of time in the sun without protection will lead to more severe consequences including Melanoma and other forms of skin cancer.

According to the American Cancer Society, millions of cases of skin cancer are diagnosed in the U.S. each year, the most dangerous type being Melanoma. More common than the potentially lethal Malignant Melanoma are other, slower-spreading skin cancers, such as Basal Cell or Squamous Cell carcinomas. The risks are even greater if you are fair-skinned and even with increased awareness and protections Melanoma will strike hundreds of light skinned people this year.

Despite the alarming numbers, there’s no need to be unreasonable about getting out enjoying a day of boating or fishing fun. Still, it’s prudent to guard against the sun’s damaging effects. These steps on a regular basis may help save your skin… not to mention you LIFE!

Before You Go:

Early outdoor sun worshipers and anglers used little or nothing before heading out to enjoy their favorite activity. Today, medical and health advances have given us sophisticated and successful sunscreen products for blocking out the sun’s ultraviolet rays. However, not all are created equal. Experts, recommend the use of at least a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 30 or a sunscreen that provides at least 30 times your skin’s normal level of protection. For anglers and boaters, the best sunscreens are the water resistant type because they are less likely to wash off during the day.

At least one-hour prior exposure, you should apply sunscreens liberally over all exposed parts of your body. This gives it time to effectively bond with your skin. Over time wind, water and body oils tend to wear away the effectiveness of even water resistant lotions. So boaters, swimmers and anglers should re-apply protection from time to time throughout the day.

Protect Your Eyes: Don’t think that simply wearing a hat or visor will protect your eyes from the sun. Sunglasses are essential.

According to respected Ophthalmologists, it’s very important to protect not only your skin, but also your eyes from the damaging effects of the sun. Failure to do so can contribute greatly to the development of serious eye diseases, including cataracts and macular degeneration of the retina, the leading cause of blindness for Americans over the age of 55.

Boaters, anglers or anyone spending time outside and on the water should wear quality sunglasses that block harmful UVA and UVB. When purchasing sunglasses it’s key to give consideration to composition and design but first and foremost, polarization. Good quality polarized sunglasses provide protection from the suns harsh ultraviolet (UV) rays and eliminate glare and blue light. Quality sunglasses significantly increase a boater’s visibility; allow anglers spot fish, bait and current breaks. Available in various styles, sunglasses should be comfortable and provide effective eye protection.

According to the FDA and the Sunglass Association of America not all sunglasses offer the same level of protection. Beware of cosmetic cheap sunglasses as they generally only screen out about 70 percent of UVB rays, and 20 percent of UVA rays. On the other hand, quality polarized sunglasses appropriate for boating applications normally screen out at least 95 percent of UVB rays, 60 percent of UVA rays and about 60 to 92 percent of visible light. Many top of the line sunglasses will offer 100 percent protection against both UVA and UVB rays. “Read the manufacturers label”.

It’s Not a Fashion Show: Remember, it’s not a fashion show out there… the goal is to catch fish, enjoy being out there, and at the same time limit your exposure to the sun. When selecting a hat, do it on functionality and comfort, not looks or a hip logo. While most anglers are devoted to their lucky fishing caps, these old favorites often do little in providing significant sun protection. The brims and bills aren’t long or wide enough to protect either your face or neck. Some newer styles are featuring longer and wider brims and some also offer built-in protection for the back of the neck.

Head for the shade: Most fishing boats are either center consoles or open, designed to provide the most room for fishing. Unfortunately, these boats also offer little in the way of sun protection. One way to provide your self some cover is installing a T-top. These tops are somewhat pricey but offer excellent protection and also afford places to mount rod-holders and other useful accessories. Bimini tops on the other hand are less expensive but still offer good protection. Numerous styles, functionality and affordable models of both T-tops and Bimini tops are available to suit a wide variety of boats. In addition to sun protection for the boat operator and passengers, T-tops and Bimini tops also provide some shelter from the weather should it suddenly take a turn for the worse?

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Have you ever wondered how those incredible fishing photos wind up on the covers of your favorite magazines? Many times it’s an element of luck, being in the right place at the right time. However when it comes to experienced photographers they are prepared, ready and leave nothing to chance when it comes to capturing the perfect shot.

In the same way you don’t have to be a photography expert to take premium pictures, but some pointers might help you capture some really nice photographs. However, there are no guarantees that your pictures will become cover shots but at least you can create a great looking outdoor photo collection.

Digital – the newest trend: A digital camera offers several advantages over film and thanks to technological advances the images taken with digital cameras have remarkably good quality. Shooting with digital, means you can instantly view the images and reshoot if necessary, you can edit your digital images and file them without any processing costs, and you have the option of storing your pictures electronically and sharing them online with friends and family.

Here are some things you should keep in mind when choosing digital for your picture taking. The shooting rate is typically slower than that of traditional cameras, causing a slight delay before the image is actually captured. Always getting better, higher-end cameras have eliminated this delay and are just as fast as film. Purchase extra memory cards, just as you would extra rolls of film if you plan on taking a lot of pictures. Since liquid crystal displays (LCD) features on digital models tend to eat up battery power so plan on taking some having extra batteries.

Some digital camera offers the option of using creative filters on the lens. One filter you should have is called a “polarizing filter used to cut down on sun glare. These act like sunglasses for your camera and greatly diminish the negative effects of glare.

Whether you use a digital or film camera the following guidelines apply.

Know the background: Be conscious of the background in any photograph. When people look at your photo, you want them to focus on the subject or fish, not rods and reels, tackle boxes, or chum buckets in the background. Many amazing photos can be ruined because you neglected to compose your shot. Also be aware of objects that can negatively affect the overall image like shadows or facing the sun.

Another angle or point of view: Should I take the photo horizontally or vertically? Before you snap the shot decide whether the image would look better horizontally or vertically. Scenic or panoramic views are usually better horizontal photos, others like an angler standing with a fishing rod and fish are better taken vertically.

Use your imagination and vary your shooting positions to add variety and creativity to your pictures. Taking pictures from different angles or levels can make your photos more interesting. Your techniques should always enhance your picture not misrepresent it.

Got to have light: On sunny days you generally you won’t need a flash. However, if overcast or low-light conditions exist, use a “fill flash” to ensure your shots obtain sufficient exposure. Most cameras have built-in or accessory flashes that reduce mid-day shadows, often cast by a hat or cap.

Avoid staged photos: Images should look like they were captured on the spur of the moment. A guaranteed way of producing a photo that looks staged is having the subject stare at the camera lens. Some really great photos happen when the subject appears oblivious they were being photographed. It’s important to have the angler focusing somewhere else (like at the fish they just caught) and not the camera. If it’s a fish have them look it right in the eye and flash big grin or smile.

Action shots are better: There’s nothing like an action shot to convey the true excitement of the moment. When fishing try taking candid shots of an angler with the rod bent while fighting a nice fish and try to capture the look of concentration and determination on their face. Once the fish is landed be ready to snap a couple of shots of the angler holding the freshly caught fish. There is one shot that’s always a winner and that’s releasing a fish. Get into position to take advantage of someone leaning over the side releasing the fish.

Clothing makes a character colorful: Avoid colors like blue, green or white especially on the upper body as these tend to get lost against the primarily blue and white backdrop of the water, sky and clouds. Clothing in red, yellow or purple is best and can inject a blast of color into your shots and enhance any photo.

Never photograph dead fish: If you want a terrible photo take a shot of a lifeless and drab fish. Fish loose their colors just moments after being caught so the best time to snap the photo is immediately after the fish is landed. This way, you’ll capture colors, capture the genuine expressions of happiness and excitement on the anglers face, and end up with a more appealing image.

Only fish or specific subject: If you want to snap a few shots of your fish by its self, that’s ok. However, focus the shot on a particular feature of section of the fish that characterizes its species or stands out as particularly prominent. For instance, you may want to focus on the teeth of a mackerel or sheepshead, the distinguishing protruding lower jaw of a snook, or the multiple spots on a redfish.

Nighttime is for sleeping: However, if you will be taking photos at night you should use high-speed film like 400 or 800 or night settings on your digital. Also be sure to use either an internal or external flash. When taking pictures of people at night, you’ll want to guard against red-eye and many cameras have built-in red-eye reduction features.

Use these guidelines and see you photographs improve.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

As a strong advocate of catch and release I thought I’d put a few words together about catching and safe leasing the things that bring us so much enjoyment. They are ours to protect and should we fail… shame on us.

Let’s start with what drives Florida’s economy and that’s tourism which brings approximately forty million people to Florida yearly. Florida’s resident population of 14.7 million increases daily and with more than 40 million tourists, most with coastal destinations it’s easy to understand why fishing continues to increase significantly over the past decades.

As a favorite activity of its residents and visitors, anglers make approximately 20 million fishing trips, catch somewhere around 141 million fish and responsibly release approximately 50% of everything they caught. Even with a significant number being released the question remains… did they live after they where released?

Protect the fish…
After being caught and released fish die for a variety of reasons but usually surrender to the physiological stresses experienced during capture, injuries from the hook, or even the angler. Though they may appear unharmed some still die in spite of our efforts to revive. As unwilling participants caught in a life or death struggle to escape, often and for our own gratification we needlessly cause them to struggle intensely for long periods. This unnecessary extended struggle causes an excessive accumulation of lactic acid to develop within their muscles and blood sending them into a state of complete exhaustion. This ruthless battle to exhaustion ultimately causes physiological stress imbalances resulting in muscle failure, and more often death.

Land it Quick:
As a result it’s important to use the proper weight-class tackle, land the fish quickly, and leave it in the water whenever possible. Immediately bringing a physically exhausted fish out of the water prevents it from getting what it needs most to recover… Oxygen! (The example often used to describe what a fish might experience would be the same thing a marathon runner may experience if a placed a plastic bag was placed over their head immediately after crossing the finish line.)

Taking a Photo:
Whenever a photo is required, allow the fish to rest and recover quietly beside the boat for a few minutes. Gently lift it from the water, support it horizontally with a wet hand, snap a couple of quick photos, and gently return it to the water taking a moment to revive it if necessary.

Circle Hooks Help Protect:
Wounds caused by hooks may appear minor to us however damage to gills, eyes, throats or internal organs are often fatal. Studies show it’s best to cut the leader at the hook and leave it in a fish that’s gut-hooked or hooked deep in its throat. Often fish are capable of eliminating, ousting, or encapsulating foreign objects like a hook. And long drawn out attempts to remove them often causes more damage. Circle hooks however help eliminate those damaging deep hook sets.

Centuries ago circle hooks where made from bone, shell, stone, ivory and sometimes wood. However, after decades of catching fish we’ve seen them emerge into what we know today. Circle hooks actually gained heavy acceptance in the unmanned long-line fishing industry. Commercial anglers discovered that when hooked in the outer part of the mouth, fish survived longer and because it’s rounded inward it was difficult for a fish to displace it and get away.

Go Barb-less or Crimp them down:
Circle hooks are the way to go and your catch ratios will improve. Many hooks are available without barbs and if you don’t have some; simply crimp the barbs on your existing hooks. You’ll still catch the same amount of fish, cause less physical damage and find the hooks much easier to remove.

Another reason for Artificial Lures:
Artificial lures normally result in less damaging hook-ups because the lures are generally in motion and the hook set happens before its swallowed. Controlled studies indicate that most fish released after hook-and-line capture can survive. However these studies also show that many die as a direct result of being deeply hooked as a result of swallowing live or dead baits. Hook position can definitely affect survival rates and those hooked in the gills, throat or gut normally have a lower survival rate than those hooked in the mouth.

Analysis conducted on several species demonstrated that using live or dead bait often results in the number of hook-related deaths. Regardless of any statistics anglers using live and dead baits should always stay alert for a quick hook-set whenever they feel a bite. Never allow the fish to run because this significantly increases the chances damage.

Maximizing Catch-and-Release Survival:
The most important action anglers can take to ensure a successful release is to hook and land the fish quickly, leave it in the water while removing the hook, and make a quick release. Large species such as Sharks and Tarpon should be brought alongside within 20 minutes and the average inshore species with a few minutes of being hooked. If you’re consistently landing exhausted fish, requiring extensive efforts at resuscitation, you might consider using heavier tackle.

Every time you must handle a fish make certain your hands or gloves are wet and never lay a fish on a hot boat deck to remove a hook. Place it on a wet towel to help protect its slime coat and cover its eyes with a wet towel to keep it still. Control the fish at all times! If you drop it the chances of damage and death increase.

Make Your Decision Early:
When you’ve caught and landed a fish, in no way engage in a lingering discussion over whether or not to release it. Decide beforehand what you’re going to keep and immediately release the others. Once you make a decision to keep a fish, stick with it. A fish released from a live well has a decreased chance of survival.

Releasing Big Fish:
Tarpon, Cobia, or Sharks should never be removed from the water because they are often injured when lifted or hauled over the side of a boat so leave them in the water. Take your photographs in the water and turn them loose. Have the necessary tools available, long-nosed pliers or a hook-removal device comes in handy when a hook is difficult to remove by hand. Note of caution: Many times I’ve had a larger shark come from under the boat and grab a Tarpon I was de-hooking. So, be ever vigilant to the presence of larger predators stalking your catch. Make certain your hand is not part of a quick meal.

Never lift or pull on the leader of a gut-hooked fish to find the hook. If you cannot see in the outer edges of the mouth it’s safe to assume it’s in a vital area and causing damage. Therefore any additional lifting or pulling only causes more damage. Simply release the fish by cutting the leader as close to the hook as possible.

Reviving Your Catch:
If the fish is in good shape, put it back into the water headfirst. On the other hand when you release a fish and it doesn’t swim away, is lethargic, or erratic it may require some form of resuscitation. The best method of reviving an exhausted but healthy fish is to place one hand under the tail holding the bottom lip with the other. Provided the fish is in fair to good shape, hold it headfirst into the current when possible. If it is severely exhausted, depress the bottom lip to cause the jaw to gape and gently move the fish forward. Never us an irregular back and forth motion as this only induces additional stress. The moment the fish attempts to swim away… let it go.

In closing let’s be sure to teach your children and inexperienced anglers these few simple procedures. Anything we can do to educate others helps ensure abundant fish populations for the future. Always practice and share new techniques to protect our fisheries and these creatures that bring us joy.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Probably the number one asked question by other anglers is… “How can I catch more and bigger fish?” I believe what they are really asking is; “Can you help me to become a better angler?

If there is any truth to the opening statement on fish catching success, it’s that most anglers are catching fewer fish. Most can increase their individual success to or near the top 10 percent by becoming better acquainted with fish habits and fishing methods. As fishing technology continues to develop anglers must continually gain knowledge of these new methods and styles if they want to be in the top percentile.

There is no single answer, piece of writing or book that teaches you the answers. The answers actually come with experience, application, and a true interest in learning to be a better angler. Having been at this fishing game for over 50 years I truly believe that because it’s something that really interests me… I’m still learning.

Here are some ideas that might help you reach your goal of becoming an excellent or at least a better angler. Hopefully, this may impart some wisdom to those who really want to learn and if you stay dedicated your catch ratios should increase.

It’s almost guaranteed however, that many will ignore the advice and choose to continue doing what they’ve always done which is certainly nature’s selection process. Dare to do something different and remember… “If you do what you’ve always done, the same way you’ve always done it you can only expect to get what you always gotten.”

Be Committed:

Make a conscious commitment if your plan is becoming a better angler. Every professional excelling in their field has an inner drive that pushes them harder and deeper and this natural progression needs to be in you from the start. Without this inner drive and desire you’re certainly in the majority. Becoming a first-rate angler is a mind set required from the beginning. We’ve all heard that fishing should be fun and enjoyable… not work. However, once you get serious and start thinking about what and why you do things it becomes more fun. Whenever you set out to excel at anything, it’s the “Commitment” that’s the hardest part.

Study, Educate and Comprehend:

One way anglers can supplement their knowledge of fish and fishing is to assimilate the knowledge and experience of others. Fishing magazine articles, television programs and word-of-mouth can never replace actual experience, but can have an impact on your success. Watching or reading about the techniques of others can often prove successful wherever you fish. Since few in today’s world have opportunity to fish every day, most recreational anglers rely to some degree on information generated by others.

There are thousands of “How To” books and articles written on every angling aspect. When you read them make certain you understand what you’re reading because you will need to apply it later. Angling styles and techniques change daily so don’t cubbyhole yourself into thinking there is only one way to do it. Today’s fishing industry is continually inventing new tackle and ways of catching fish.

Fishing Tackle:

Becoming a better angler is out of the question just by having the latest, greatest and most expensive equipment. Having the most expensive tackle may give others the impression you’re on top of the game when actually you’re the same average angler with thousands of dollars in tackle not used to its fullest. Having the highest quality tackle is great if you can afford it but all that quality fishing tackle is only as good as the person using it. On the other hand, top of the line tackle, in the hands of someone that understands its potential, certainly makes fishing more pleasurable.

There are thousands of people catching hundreds of fish each year on cane poles or the $19.95 rod and reel special because they understand the habits of fish and techniques required to catch them.

Write it Down:

Always keep a logbook. Keep a small notebook in your tackle box to jot down everything relating to how, when and where you caught fish. Then when you return home, take a moment to record this information in your main logbook. Keeping a good log allows you to duplicate or avoid what you did before and unless you write it down you will forget it.

What information should you keep? Record locations, weather conditions, time of day, moon phase, barometric pressure, wind direction and speed, tide and current data, water depth, ambient temperature, water temperatures, lures or live baits. Also record things like the type of line and leader, how much weight if any, type of hooks, did you use a float, did you chum, the list can be endless but the more you information you have the easier it is to duplicate the good days and avoid the bad ones.

Your logbook should include both good and bad days. Of course the good days are easy to write down however the bad ones can also teach you, so write them down. When reviewing your logbook keep an eye open for developing patterns because they give you the power of prediction, often limiting wasted efforts.

Fishing Reports:

There are literally thousands of highly regarded fishing reports published everywhere… Do not rely totally on the locations, baits and lures given. No one is going to tell you exactly where or how they caught fish because for some reason that information must be kept a closely guarded secret. It seems to be one of the most protected bits of information anyone can have and is seldom shared publicly. Overall, most fishing reports are general and give you a good starting point.

There is a place where you might pick up some useful information, and that’s your local bait and tackle shop. Not only is it a good place to buy your bait and tackle it a great source of information because every good shop has its finger on the fishing pulse for their area. They know what’s being caught, the general areas, and what baits people are using.

It’s also a great gathering place for anglers willing to tell about their last great exploit and provided you keep you eyes and ears open, they often slip up and reveal exactly where and how the great adventure took place. The idea is… eyes and ears open… mouth closed.

Aptitude and Proficiency:

Angling is a game of choices. When you’re fishing and not catching, the more alternatives you have the better your chances of finding a solution. Proficiency involves many aspects of the fishing game: fishing line, hooks, weights, lures, baits, reels, rods, casting, and knots. To become a better angler you should develop and aptitude for understanding these aspects. One solution would be becoming a better caster and others might be tying specific knots or cleaning and lubricating your rods and reels.

Casting accuracy and distance in good weather, bad weather, high winds, no wind, over-hand, side-arm, skipping, soft-landing is something you should know. Let’s take accuracy for example; placing the right lure at the right time in a strike zone often results in an instant strike.

Casting distance obviously, means the further the cast the larger the presentation area and the larger the area the better your chances of getting your bait in front of more fish. Casting accuracy means reaching that special spot and catching the fish others cannot reach.

Learn about artificial lures and live bait. Normally, live bait always catches fish; however, learning to use artificial’s pits you against the fish. Learning to fooling a fish into eating a piece of plastic or wood that might or might not resemble its natural food takes skill.

Ask most anglers to show you their tackle box and you’ll be amazed at the number of lures they have and the amazing thing is they only use a third of what they carry. Professionals understand which lures produce and which don’t. Normally, they only carry those baits in the color patterns they know will catch fish. Basically, every seasoned angler or professional has what’s referred to as confidence baits. Whether artificial or live it’s something they know they can catch fish on.

Learning where to fish requires certain skill levels and knowledge of the area. Many fish producing locations are considered challenging because they require you to fish shallow, deep, grassy or heavy structure. People fear these demanding locations because they don’t know how to fish them, are afraid of getting snagged, and losing their tackle. Understand that baitfish like structure and since fish like to eat other fish, it stands to reason they also like structure.

Understand the Weather (Logbook Information):

Weather patterns affect fish, baits, and people. You should begin understanding how the weather affects your specific area, species of fish, water clarity, wind direction, water temperature, tides, current and barometric pressure because they can definitely influence your success or failure.

The moon’s affect on tides and current flows, play an important role since changing depths will move fish and impact bait patterns. Any seasoned tarpon angler will tell you they prefer a strong outgoing rather than a slack tide. Why, because a strong outgoing tide moves bait and moving bait means eating fish.

Wind direction can also play a role in when fish eat. Some areas do not produce as well when winds blow from a particular direction. However, when it blows from another direction it has the ability to disturb certain food sources often congregating bait in those areas.

An important part of catching fish is figuring out when they feed. Prime feeding tables are available in many magazines and theorize feeding times based on moon/sun phases along with barometric pressure changes. While giving a general idea of when fish feed, nothing surpasses practical experience and your logbooks information. Try to fish when baits are readily available, fish are interested in eating, and not six hours later. It’s much better to fish for three hours at the right time than eight hours at the wrong one.

This learning process is ongoing and if you’re interested in being the best you can; stay informed about the latest techniques and products. Nothing works better than practical experience, so as you learn something new put that information to use… go fishing.

The top 10 percent of today’s anglers are the best not only because they know how to handle a boat or fishing tackle but because they employ all the options and strategies. So, if 10 percent of the anglers catch 90 percent of the fish… why not become one the 10 percent by trying something different.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Every angler’s watched in amazement as bass professionals set the hook. Well it’s a matter of experience that’s taught them just how hard to pull and when to ease off. It has a lot to do with getting used to the feel and knowing when the line reaches its maximum stretch potential. Maximum stretch is primarily a characteristic of monofilament lines as opposed to the new super braids having little or no stretch and virtually no memory. Many of today’s anglers switching to super braid line seldom if ever return to monofilament.

So what’s this got to do with a hook-set? With braid you need less effort to set a hook. Because there’s no stretch, when the fish pulls away it almost hooks itself. Saltwater anglers targeting snook, redfish, trout and other inshore species also favor the other characteristics of braid… casting distance, resistance to the suns ultra violet rays, less water drag for a few. But enough about super braid lines.

How hard to pull when setting a hook depends on other factors more than brute strength? Species of fish, fishing line, rod and reel combination, depth of water, type of bait and most important the hook are determining factors in when and how hard.

An important thing to remember is control your power. Whenever force is applied something must give or break.  Therefore, to hook and land any fish things like line stretch, rods action and flex, fishes size and weight and physical uniqueness their mouth are determining factors in the amount of force.

With so much emphasis being placed on catch and release today’s environmentally conscious anglers are turning to circle hooks. Proven fish friendly, at least in the aspect of throat and gut hooking more fish are released without the high mortality rates often associated with the more conventional J-hook.

Circle hooks are practically fool proof and work whenever a fish takes your bait and swims away. The moment you sense a moving fish immediately start reeling to take up any slack line. Then as the fish applies pressure increase your speed, keep a taught line, and a bent fishing rod. By its inherent design the hook to pulls forward in the mouth and away from the throat. As the point finds the outside of the jaw it turns in and penetrates. No hook set is required! As previously indicated and providing you’re paying attention the hooks always find a way to the outside of the mouth. Fall asleep at the wheel and the fish will still swallow the bait and hook.

Conventional J-hooks are a mainstay in the fishing industry and there is nothing wrong with using them. When use properly especially by seasoned anglers there is an excellent hook-up percentage. However, novice or persons who lack the attention span to quickly detect a strike inevitably allow fish to swallow the bait thereby becoming hooked in the throat or worse. For this reason anglers using circle hooks agree that they do prevent swallowed bait and gut-hooked fish.  They have decreased the catch and release mortality rate significantly which is another sure reason to use circle hooks.

Big fish coupled with big hook sets can inevitably equal lost fish. Not so much because they’re older and smarter as many would believe… it has more to do with physics, like their weight verses rod action, line and the power exerted during a strike. When large fish strike they completely take the bait into their mouth in one quick move. The natural reaction is to jerk back on the rod. Depending on the distance, amount of line between and the fish, and the power of your rod a hard fast snatch could literally snap the rod or break the line. A quick backward swoosh is usually sufficient to force the hook point home.

Large fish also absorb less shock. Whereas smaller ones move or turn in the water during a hook set larger one do not. Due to weight and water resistance big fish move very little during the initial hook set. Consequently if they do not give there’s only one other thing that can… their fleshy tissue and bone.

If you think about how the fish’s mouth looked the last time you removed a hook after a heavy or hard set you’ll most likely remember seeing a large hole torn in the tissue surrounding its mouth. This and any slack line gives them an excellent opportunity to escape by throwing the hook. Remember, hooks work best when they puncture small holes allowing the barb to hold it in place.

In addition to circle hooks you’ll often find responsible anglers using barb-less hooks or bending the barbs down on existing hooks. If for no other reason this facilitates easy removal. But it also requires a softer hook set. A softer set will normally create a smaller hole and forces you to keep the hook in place by keeping a tight line. Obviously, not tearing large holes in their mouths is better for the fish.

Good hook setting techniques is a matter of trial and error as it relates to each fish you catch. During the critical moments after a fish grabs your bait or the bobber goes under think to yourself about the force required.  Learning to use more controlled pressure should help get more fish to the boat.

The most important part of boating any fish is making sure you release it with as little damage as possible. Practice responsible catch and release.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

It’s not life of death it’s only fishing…

Anytime several anglers get together the possibility of sharing fishing and adventure stories results in endless hours of quality companionship often developing into lasting friendships. However, pressure to catch fish, inexperience, and overcrowding can and does increase tensions among professional and recreational anglers often undermining what otherwise should be a relaxing fishing trip.

Everyone is guilty! It’s called our tempers and unless you’re an extremely patient person, on daily doses of Valium, you’re likely to lose yours at some time or another. Although not deliberately we’ve all done it, unintentionally cut someone off, take a little too long getting our boat into or out of the water, or getting a little too close to another angler. And when we do, we get that all familiar “hey you idiot” stare or an oratory of verbal batter including profanity regardless of who is near. When this occurs it’s often difficult to maintain a non-confrontational attitude especially when someone’s calling you every name in the book and your nine year daughter and wife are with you.

It’s to your emotional and occasionally physical advantage to ignore further attempts at provocation. In today’s world you’re never sure who you’re dealing with, their mental and emotional capacity or ability to comprehend everyday logic. Just wait till their finished, say you’re sorry and continue your day.

Whenever you engage the situation, more times than not, you will lose your composure, become emotionally involved and give the other person total control of your emotional state. When actions and tempers flair the possibilities exist for that situation to escalate often to a point of physical confrontation. Whenever this happens… no one wins. Always remember… “Never give them control”

Be Courteous: Courteousness is necessary both personally and professionally especially since custom and practice play a major role in our everyday social life. These unwritten ways help govern our behavior and conduct as we relate to others. It is this framework that guides our interactions and offers a road map enabling us to avoid uncomfortable and embarrassing situations. A French essayist de Montaigne once quoted. “Courtesy is a science of the highest importance. It’s opening a door that we may derive instruction from the example of others, and at the same time it enables us to benefit by our example“. If there be anything in our character worthy of imitation… let it be Courtesy.”

Common Sense on the other hand is what the world refers to as wisdom, requires little education, but does require the ability to think and reason. Common sense combined with everyday courteousness makes our lives much brighter and more fun.

There’s plenty of water and places to fish. So, if someone’s in the spot you wanted to fish just move on to another one. We’ve all been there traveling long distances to your favorite spot only to find someone sitting right where you wanted to fish. Well that’s the breaks, think positive and consider it an opportunity to find some new places.

However, if it’s absolutely imperative that you fish the same area (which it rarely is) remember to treat the situation like you would like to be treated. Come off plane early, keeping noise and wake to a minimum. When joining others already fishing an area drift, push pole or use your trolling motor to approach. Lower your anchor quietly or better yet… use your Power Pole “Shallow Water Anchor“.

Crowding other anglers, particularly when they’re catching fish is probably the number one source of irritation and arguments than any other fishing protocol violation. We should all understand we cannot expect to fish the most popular spots alone… especially on weekends or holidays. But what we should expect from other anglers is common sense, courtesy and consideration.

How close is to close?

I’m often asked how far is far enough away from another boat. Many times it depends on the area but here’s a rule of thumb that’s been around for years. Basically it’s around 100 yards or if your, longest cast will land within the casting range of another boat… “You’re too close“.

If someone is fishing and blocking the entrance to an area you want to fish… try giving them the courtesy of asking, “Which side they prefer you pass on”.

Fishing guides having limited time to produce for their clients may seem impersonal to certain situations. For most it’s not intentional they’re just busy doing what their clients hired them to do. This doesn’t mean guides have more rights than others and it doesn’t give them the right not to be courteous, not to use common sense or to fish certain areas. Granted they may spend extra time on the water finding fish but that’s all part of it. Just like you seeing them catching fish in a certain area they see you doing the same thing.

My Fishing Spot: Here’s something that to me really makes no sense at all. It’s this thing called “My Fishing Spot”. In my years of fishing I’ve never encountered a sign saying, “This spot belongs to Capt. Jim Redfish or Mr. John Snook.” Just because you caught fish there previously does not mean you own it. While you may have a favorite area believe me it’s far from being unknown especially when others see you catching fish.

In closing let me say that fishing is a great individual and family pastime offering a source of relaxation, entertainment, and most of all fun. Nothing will ruin the day more than getting upset with someone or having them upset with you. Be courteous, use common sense and think before you act. Don’t let an insignificant nothing turn a fishing trip into water rage… after all “It’s only fishing – not life or death”.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

An angler’s worst nightmare that often shows up at the worst possible time!

Ever wondered why your fishing reels get backlashes. I thought for years…if you fish… you get them and it was something anglers just lived with. However once you understand the theory behind this hair pulling little aggravation it’s really pretty simple to eliminate.

Bait casters are probably the worse… especially older models. The whole thing starts during a cast when the spool over runs the line. In other words when casting the lures weight plus forward motion causes the spool to spin. As line is pulled off the spool it overcomes its stationary position and natural inertia and begins accelerating. As the lure or bait slows or lands in the water the spool continues spinning at this accelerated speed. Therefore, some type of control is needed is needed to first slow… then stop the spool. If control is not exercised at this point the line continues unraveling causing loops and twist and there it is… a backlash.

The control needed to overcome the spinning spool can be anything from your thumb on older model reels to the latest technology which involves integrated braking systems or adjustable mechanical devices that enable the user to set and control spool speed in relation to lure weight. Some even go so far as manufacturing reels with miniature computer boards that automatically control the spool.

This new technology doesn’t mean reels do it do everything for you. Even with the new controls compensating for spool speed it’s still a mechanical device requiring human input. A good starting point when adjusting bait casters is to begin with a completely rigged rod, reel and the lure you’ll be casting.

Here is the basic setup for spool adjustment:

1. Gently tighten the adjustment control until the spool does not turn when the release is pushed.

2. Hold the lure off the ground at about 45 degrees loosen the adjustment control until the lure starts dropping.

3. Finally, adjust the control to stop the spool as the lure hits the ground.

While this is a good starting point every angler has their own preference depending on their experience. These adjustments aid in preventing backlashes but remember… nothing works like practice.

Spinning tackle is relatively easier. However backlashes do occur, especially using the newer braided lines. Not the over-running spool scenario we’re accustomed on bait casters it’s more a series of twist and loops associated with “loose wraps” on the spool. Avoiding this especially when using braid is fairly straightforward:

Following these few steps should help:

1. When making your cast… stop the line just as the bait hits the water.

2. An easy way to do this is placing you index finger on the spool.

3. Close the bail manually making certain the lines in the line roller.

4. Finally, always lift the rod to take up any slack before starting to reel.

Using these suggestions should improve your anti-backlash ratio. However, sooner or later you’re going to encounter that dreaded backlash or birds nest as often referred too. To get them out, start by gently pulling on the loops. You’re looking for that specific one that caused this disaster. Continue lightly pulling and untwisting the loops, you’ll soon begin separating and untangling the line. It takes patience but given the cost of braided line a little patience is worth it. Your worse case scenario means cutting the line. However, a simple double Uni-knot gets you back fishing in no time.

Accurate casting using either a bait caster or spinning tackle comes with practice and no one likes to do it. However becoming proficient and consistently placing a lure or bait in an area the size of a basketball takes some effort and doesn’t happen overnight.

Well that’s about it for backlashes hopefully this gives some insight into what causes them and what you can do to correct them.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

It’s almost that time of year when Sea Trout begin showing up and the bite should pick up especially as the water temperatures drop. Here are a few tips for fishing these wintertime favorites as they begin showing up on the inshore flats.

To start let’s go over the rules and regulations for fishing Florida’s Spotted Sea Trout. First, there are closed seasons, size restrictions and daily bag limits. And if that’s not confusing enough there are three separate regions the Northeast, Northwest, and Southern. Not done yet… check this scenario.

It’s important to know where you are when it comes to the zones that separate the regions. Let’s say, you’re fishing an area near a northwest, northeast or southern dividing line. If you launched in a particular region, during an open season, catch and keep Spotted Sea Trout, then venture into a closed season region, you have violated the law and could receive a citation from the Florida Wildlife Commission.

For some reason, which many can’t figure out, those making the rules saw a need for having different regions and bag limits. I’m sure they have pages of justification and studies to back up their decisions. But one might think a little common sense could prevail. Don’t get me wrong I’m not against fishing regulations, in fact I’m a staunch supporter of catch and release and the measures taken to protect our natural resources… but come on, let’s keep it a little simpler.

Since Trout are semi-territorial staying or returning to the same areas provided there is food. A good rule when targeting Trout is locating good grass flats with a sandy or rocky bottom and visible presence of food. Next look for shallow bars or potholes especially those adjacent to deep water drop offs or ledges. Trout love chasing bait into shallow water and attacking it from below. This works in their favor since these shallow areas and potholes act like fish pens where they push the bait up trapping it against the surface.

As you approach a likely area continually scan the water keeping an eye open for feeding fish. If you find them watch closely to determine if they’re randomly feeding on bait schools, attacking anything that moves, or causally picking off strays? All this helps you decide how you’re going to proceed.

Fishing topwater lures is a hoot on tightly grouped feeding fish that normally hit anything that moves. When working a group of actively feeding fish present your lure faster than normal the key being quick, erratic action, and retrieves because it’s now an impulse strike. You want them to strike without getting a good look.

On the other hand, scattered fish feeding over a wide area represents a normal feeding time situation making it a bit tougher, but the results can still be spectacular once you find the key. This condition normally has a number of associated conditions and is usually distinguished by cloud cover or high winds resulting in reduced light and visibility, large amounts of food scattered throughout the area, and rising surface temperatures. As is always the case, these fish have feed for sometime and are likely gorged by the time you find them. Although they’ve have had their fill they may still want some desert. That being the case, now is the time to rethink your presentation.

Instead of fast and erratic it’s time to slow down, which for many is extremely difficult often resulting in frustration. Keep reminding yourself they are highly selective because they are not hungry. Therefore, making the lure look as inviting as possible is the key. For this reason strikes often come when the lure moves slightly after sitting idle or wobbles slowly across the surface. Another method is using subsurface suspending lures or soft plastics rigged to gradually drop. Remember, when using soft plastics almost every strike happens on the fall and is often extremely delicate so unless you’re paying close attention you will miss it.

Too Much Pressure:

Trout like many other species stop feeding or move off when pressured, either by boats, anglers or predators and if badly spooked they gone for the day. With the numbers of boats and anglers racing around our waters, you might think fish would become accustomed to the sound of big engines. However depending on the location, water clarity and depth a main engine still startles them, so try approaching the area using your trolling motor or drifting. Always stopping well before your target area; stop on top of the fish and they’re gone. The most common mistake happens when someone carelessly roars into a good area, shuts down the big engine and throws out that 15 lb. anchor. Then they sit there wondering why the fish don’t bite.

Regardless of the conditions just because the bite slows down don’t assume the party’s over. The fish are there, just recovering from their last big feed. Kind of us after a large meal… just can’t get out of the recliner. Enjoy the fact you’re on the water, slow down, relax, pay attention to what you’re doing and fish until the bites resumes. It’s called fishing…not catching.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

Everyone knows the best part of fishing is catching… on the other hand, keeping some for dinner means cleaning them. This daunting, messy and sometimes dangerous chore becomes easier with practice and a sharp knife. Ever wonder if our environmental concern actually fueled the practice of “catch and release” or was it just to avoid cleaning fish.

The key opening word here is sharp and like anything, learning to sharpen a favorite knife and keep it sharp takes practice. Contrary to popular belief, sharp knives are safe when used correctly. Consequently, using a dull knife becomes difficult and often dangerous forcing you to push and tear rather than slice.

Everyone owns knives and many came with the “a blade so sharp you can shave with it” guarantee. However, unless you become skilled at maintaining a proper edge that promised clean shave could quickly turn into, a self-sacrifice.

Thinking back to when a young man, in his thirties, was cleaning a mess of Shell Cracker’s at Pana-Vista Lodge on Lake Panasoffkee. Working diligently, I noticed a man standing nearby watching me clean or as he called it later “butcher some nice fish. Finally, in a voice of desperation he said, “Hold on there son, I can’t watch this any longer.” Taking something wrapped an old tee shirt from his tackle box he said, “Give me that knife”. Instantly, and with the precision of a surgeon, this old fellow sharpened that knife to a razor’s edge. Handing it back he stressed, “Careful now, it is sharp. “Thank you”, I said, taking up where I left off. Continuing on, I thought man what a difference. Leaving for the cabin, I wanted to thank him again, but he was gone.

Hoping to see him again, I kept an eye open toward the dock. By late afternoon I noticed, him and another man sitting near the dock under a giant oak. Thinking here is a chance to learn about sharpening a knife, I headed down. As I approached he looked up, smiled and said, “Eat them fish, yet”. I replied, “Not yet, having them for supper. Don’t want to interrupt anything but I was wondering would you teach me to sharpen a knife”. Looking up, he said, “Be glad to, my friend here and I where just killing some time. Go get that knife; while I get the stone.”

Returning with the knife, I wondered what he meant by stone. I pulled up a chair and in the cool afternoon breeze he began talking about stones, angles, lubricants, and steels”. I thought, this guy knows his stuff and I asked, “How did you learn so much about sharpening knives”. His friend, feet propped up on dock railing, spoke saying, “He’s a butcher for over forty years, now. “Well that explains it,” I said.

As we continued to talking about knives, jobs, fishing, and life, I discovered things that have stayed with me.
1. Always slice with a knife never push it.
2. Never cut bone, always use a saw or scissors.
3. A knife used for filleting is for that purpose only. Never use it for anything else.
4. Keep your knife in a soft cotton cloth rather than plastic or leather sheaths.
5. Protect you Whetstone and Steel.

There is something different about a fish camp on a late spring afternoon. Time slows and the pressure from our everyday grind just seems to stop, for a while anyway. People seem friendlier and willing to share their time with you. This is what I learned when a person shared his time and knowledge with a younger man on a late May afternoon.

Originally, whetstones coming from natural sources; was the best method of sharpening tools. However, over the years many stone mines surrendered their highest quality materials. The scarcity of these high-quality materials lead to lesser quality stones resulting in non-uniform grit or soft spots. Modern technology and man’s ingenuity have introduced artificial materials of varying formulations and quality. With many improvements and ready availability, artificial whetstones are becoming more attractive today.

Whetstones also known as oilstones depending on their composition require the use water or oil to aid the cutting action. Made from diamonds, ceramic, or silicon carbide some have two sides one course the other fine. These two-sided stones enable one stone to satisfy most basic sharpening needs.

If your whetstone requires water remember to soak it with water for several minutes, no bubbles means it’s ready.” A common mistake people make when using a stone is washing off the muddy powder that forms. Leave it because it helps the cutting action. Anything that requires sharpening needs the correct tool and today there are many new ways of sharpening knives. Still, learning to use a stone properly is priceless art.

Next, important part is the angle. Holding the knife to flat and the blade becomes too thin, breaking or rolling. “A good 20-degree angle produces the best edge,” he remarked. If you have, difficulties imagining a 20-degree angle try this tip: Start at 90 degrees, half of ninety is 45 degrees, half of 45 are 22.5, and that is close enough.

Always hold the knife tightly with fingers on top of the blade and not off the edge of the stone. Now draw the blade down and across the stone, like taking a thin slice of ham. Starting with the tip, moving to the middle and then the back take three slices then three more, soon you will feel a burr developing on the opposite side. When you feel this turn the blade over making a few slices on the opposite side until the burr disappears. That is all there is to it.

Steels are used to the edge sharp and in shape and are used when the knife is already sharp. Look at the cutting edge up close and you see a thin sharp bit of metal. Now imagine after using the knife several times that sharp edge begins to roll or fold. When this happens, the knife becomes blunt. Here is where you use a Steel to comb the edge back in line. But, remember Steels do not sharpen they only maintain the edge.”

While digging around a few years ago I came upon several knives belonging to my departed grandfather. I can remember my dad using one in particular to clean fish. Not a fillet knife by today’s standards it still does a great job filleting fish. Its long, thin, cold steel, curved blade holds an edge like nothing I have ever used. Over a decade it has aged well, still cleans fish, and much easier since, I learned to sharpen and keep it sharp.

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com

It’s early in the morning around 6 AM as I quietly coast onto my favorite grass flat and slowly ease the trolling motor into the water. I think to myself, “can’t believe no one else is here”. There is just something mystical yet peaceful about early mornings, grass flats, and a good rod and reel.

The bay water is calm almost like a sheet of glass and perfect for working a topwater lure across some shallow grass potholes. Whenever I pick up my rod it’s become a habit to check the leader and knot before making that first cast. “First fish for a buck” I tell myself as the lure zips away landing softly some seventy-feet away.

Watching intently as the ripples gently disappear, I begin an unhurried retrieve with the competence I’ve used a million times before. I use a “walk-the-dog” retrieve learned years ago fishing large mouths with my dad. This action makes the lure bob back and forth from side to side with each twitch and reel and instinctively pausing to see if something is following. When starting again, keep it very subtle, using light twitches barely making a ripple.

Standing quietly on the bow and thinking I have done this a thousand times and know exactly what to expect”. Never the less, I’m never quite ready for the explosive strikes and adrenaline rush associated with topwater fishing.

That thought barely clears my mind when it happens. Exploding from beneath water like a surfacing submarine on an emergency maneuver, a trophy Snook takes the lure. There was no waiting to feel the fish before setting the hook. The line tightened instantly, the rod bent almost double, and my heart pounded as if running for my life.

A little composure would be nice about now I thought as the drag screamed and the line cutting the water like a blade. This is a big one I thought as I came to the realization that it’s just me and her this morning and no one else. I know I can win this battle I just have to remember everything I’m always teaching others about landing a big fish. You know all those everyday subconscious things that whisk through your mind:

1. Keep the rod tip down avoiding those lure throwing jumps
2. Use the trolling motor to keep her out front
3. Don’t reel against the drag
4. Not too much pressure
5. Did I lock the car?
6. Did I leave the lights on?
7. Did I make the house payment?

Almost as quickly as it started, I sensed tiredness in my opponent as I gained line with each turn of the handle. What seemed like an hour actually took only minutes. Stepping off the bow into the cockpit, I got my first good look at this magnificent fish. With the sun breaking over downtown Tampa, she was resting quietly alongside the boat. No need to lift her into the boat I thought she was tired enough without the added stress. So still in the water she lays as I gently support her from underneath while removing the lure. My hook came out easily because I always bend down the barbs.

Still supporting her and gently holding her bottom lip with my thumb, I stare into those superb brown eyes as she builds strength with every breath. Soon I feel her muscles tense, her tails moving gently back and forth… she’s almost ready. Removing my thumb, she makes a quick thrust and scoots away… a little tired but in good shape.

Standing there alone thinking about this remarkable experience, I glanced around at the marvels of nature and reflecting that the human race can do miraculous things but it took someone or something much greater than us to provided all this.

No photo necessary…the fish gods smiled on me today and I’ll remember this wonderful opportunity to catch such a marvelous fish.

Mornings and times on the water like this make everything worthwhile. I shudder to think that someday this will be lost forever. Our ever-exploding population and quest for the all mighty dollar will ultimately destroy any remaining natural resources we often take for granted. I you do not think it is not already happening

just look around for any virgin waterfront land.

It is everyone’s responsibility to protect these precious and environmentally sensitive natural resources. If we do not accept the task… who will?

This article is owned by Capt. Woody Gore and is copyright protected. Permission to republish this article in print or online must be granted by Capt. Gore. wgore@ix.netcom.com